Additions & Modifications to our 2005 Triumph 210

N

NCangler

Guest
The modifications really started before the boat arrived at the dealers with the purchase of a Rolls Axle trailer. As discussed in the article “Why did we purchase a Triumph”, the Rolls Axle has a swing tongue and it is shorter and lower than the factory standard. In addition, with this trailer being all aluminum or stainless steel, it should far outlast the factory standard trailer. It is our opinion that time will prove that our Rolls Axle trailer purchase will end up saving us money, even though the initial cost was higher.



Before the trailer was ready, we purchased the following items:
  • Cushioned Ball Mount. When installed, the hitch pin block is locked in a fixed position while the ball mount slides forward and backward, compressing the polyurethane cushion as needed.
    Part # D-54 Finish Black Class 4 GTVW/MTW 10,000 lbs / 2,000 lbs
    Hole Size 1 in Drop 4 inch Rise 4 _ inch Length 10 1/4 inch
    Gusset Yes Tube Cushion Style 2 (We did waste some money here. Originally, we only purchased a two-inch drop. The Rolls Axle sits so low we had to get the four-inch drop)

  • Towtector Shield, Item Number 7818 - 78" Towtector Shield – 18 inch w/ Wall Storage Bracket. We intend to use this item on longer trips with the boat. It does protect the boat from gravel, road tar, and other items thrown up by your tow vehicle, and we did use it on our trip home from our dealer.

  • Trailer Hitch Ball 2" x 1" x 2-1/8"

  • 1-1/2 in. Socket, Sears Item #: 00947518000. Used to install the Trailer Hitch Ball.

  • Model#: 6834774 MASTER LOCK 2847DATSC Adjustable Coupler Latch Lock

  • MASTER LOCK 375DAT Stainless-Steel Receiver Lock. 5/8" Receiver Hitch Lock Fits 2" x 2" receivers. This is the only receiver lock that really fits my tow vehicle.

  • Grease Gun for trailer axles.

  • Amsoil Synthetic Water Resistant Grease for Trailer – two (2) 14-ounce cartridges. The trailer manufacturer, Rolls Axle, stated that Amsoil is the only grease they use on their trailers.

  • Master Rustoleum Lock and six feet of Coated Cable to lock the spare tire to the trailer frame.

  • 18" Flex T Handle with 1/2" Drive - for increased leverage when installing or removing lug nuts (or maybe I am just getting weaker). 13/16" Socket for 1/2" Drive (Fits Boat Trailer Lug Nuts). 3/4" Socket for 1/2" Drive (Fits Ford Explorer Tire Lug Nuts). Because the trailer is all stainless or aluminum, the trailers lug nuts have to be installed or removed manually. A tire changers “gun” would generate too much heat and destroy them.

  • M-Y Wedge Transom Saver. With the Rolls Axle set lower than the standard trailer, this is used whenever the trailer is being towed. Greatest little tool for the job I have ever seen. If you need a transom saver, this is the only one to purchase.
Our New Boat Arrives!


Our new 210 CC finally arrived at the dealer, Merritt Marine in Hillsborough, North Carolina. It just seems as if it takes forever whenever you order a new car or a new boat. Before the boat was ready for us to pick it up, the great folks at Merritt, including Carl Merritt and Dick Cabble, had the following items installed:
  • Stainless Steel Center Transom Drain Plug

  • Raycor Fuel Filter

  • Solas Stainless Steel Prop

  • Yamaha Water Temperature Gauge

  • Install the thru hull bottom type drains, they really do make life a lot easier as they communicate directly thru the bottom of the boat instead of having fish parts in the bilge. We installed these drains in all four fish boxes and the rear port storage compartment

  • Tite-Lok Model 5901 Track Sections 6-36 Inches - Length 6 Inches. IN ADDITION, Tite-Lok Model 5901 Track Sections 6-36 Inches - Length 18 Inches.

  • Four Track Inserts Series, Size 5902 / 18 inch, color white. IN ADDITION, four Track Inserts, Size 5902 / 6-inch color white.

  • Floscan 5410-20A-1, with a 0-10 GPH scale for a single engine. For all 4-cycle outboards PLUS 2-stroke Ficht, Optimax, and HPDI outboards (76 hp - 150 hp). Some people recommended the Navman, but even Chad Merritt was impressed enough to get a Floscan for his new boat.

  • Collapsible Radar Arch, the first one designed for a Triumph 210 CC. That is really the only modification that is apparent from our first pictures and a real necessity if we were going to have radar AND have the boat fit into the garage.
The Boat is Home...Time to Outfit Her!


From Anchor Concepts, we purchased a Model 30 Standard HydroBubble Anchor, One SW1 Stainless Swivel, 300 ft of 3/8 inch rope, with 10 ft of stainless chain, and (1) shackle. With the boat in the garage, we keep the anchor disassembled in the anchor locker. It only takes a minute or two to put it together, and it can be set up as a breakaway if you are anchoring over any man made reefs or rocks. Judy and John Willis are the owners and their web site is .

We purchased eight Scorcher Neoprene Water sports Vests in various sizes. They were comfortable to wear and could be used by my son’s friends while tubing. We also purchased the obligatory flotation cushion. We found that all eight life jackets would fit into two Sea Bowld - Life Jacket Bags and the two bags would fit in the front mega hold.

We purchased the book “12 Volt Bible for Boaters” and would strongly recommend it for all boat owners. Especially to Triumph owners in that they tend to do a lot of the work on their boats themselves.

We also purchased a Deluxe Signal Kit, three white fenders 6.5'' x 23', four fender lines, weekender First Aid Kit, Kidde Mariner 110 Fire Extinguisher, two pre-spliced double braid nylon dock lines – 15' x 3/8'', one pre-spliced double braid nylon dock line - 25' x 3/8', a telescoping paddle, and a 6' boat hook.

Let the Modifications Begin

As we mentioned earlier, our 210 has the first collapsible radar arch designed for a 210. They used a 3/8 inch by 1 3/4 inch bolts with an allen-head design to mount the arch to the boat. They are great for the rear 2-inch aluminum pipe, but very cumbersome to get in and out of the front mounts as you raise or lower the arch. I looked at three stores and finally found some Ball-Lock Fastpins. These are a positive locking pin with one-hand release will not dislodge accidentally. I found them made of corrosion-resistant stainless steel. While they are just a little longer than I needed, they will work. I do need to install a ring and anchor wire for the locking pins so they are not accidentally lost (at $24.99 each that would get expensive).


We removed the top of the electronics box. With our boat being stored in our garage, the need for a locking box just is not there. When we travel with our boat, we can just remove our main electronics each night.

We purchased some 3/4 inch white starboard to mount on the floor of the electronics box. The floor is somewhat flexible, and I really do not want my electronics bouncing around where I cannot read them.

On Monday May 16, 2005, we started modifying the battery switches. We did not like the factory installed and traditional OFF-1-BOTH-2 battery switch.


Instead, we wanted to use a system best described on the “West Marine” web site. This system uses three OFF-ON battery switches as follows: one switch to connect the starting battery to your starter circuit; one switch to connect the house battery to your boat's distribution panel; and one switch to parallel your battery systems if either battery fails. We used Blue Sea Systems - Part Number 9006 ON/OFF (Fixed Knob) Mini Battery Switch, that have a suggested retail price of $26.99 each. We also ordered Mini Switch Knob Labels, part numbers 6600 – Starter, 6656 – House, and 6654 - Emergency Parallel.


With this switch set-up, you simply turn your engine and house switches to the ON position whenever you are onboard, whether anchored, starting your engine, or sailing. The battery parallel switch remains OFF unless there is a complete failure of either battery bank or you have run your starting battery down trying to crank a reluctant engine. When your engine is off, the starting battery is safely isolated from the house loads. It cannot be discharged, even if you leave your stereo on all night.

By isolating starting and house banks, you face a challenge trying to charge them from a single source like single-output chargers or alternators. If you violate the "separation" of the two banks, you face the probability of two dead batteries due to "operator brain-fade". That is why I wanted the West Marine Battery Combiner.

The Combiner 50 is a voltage-sensing relay (13.3 volts) which connects two batteries together when either is receiving a charge. When the charging ceases, the relay opens so that each battery operates independently. You never have to worry about switching to "BOTH" when your engine is running and forgetting to switch back to save your starting battery from discharge when you stop.

Some of the features of the Combiner 50 include: 50 amps continuous rating, 200 amps closing current (2 seconds), 100 amps for 5 minutes, Waterproof - Ideal for exposed mounting in open boats, Simple basic installation, two battery wires and ground, Draws only 0.00005 amps when batteries are not being charged - that's only 1 amp-hour every 2 years. For additional information, you can visit the web site of the manufacturer, Yandina Ltd..


This product senses the voltage of the battery banks and connects the batteries together whenever one battery's voltage is elevated. Both banks charge simultaneously and remain combined until the voltage drops, whereupon they are disconnected from one another. It is much like having a very attentive engineer flip your battery parallel switch on and off at exactly the right moment. The result is maximum charging performance for two banks, and complete isolation of the two banks to ensure that you can start your engine.

When you arrive on board, turn on the engine and the house battery switches. Leave them on for the duration of your trip, and forget about them. The Battery Combiner will silently charge both batteries when the engine or other charge source is on, and will isolate your batteries when you are not charging. As a result, the possibility of having to call a towing service due to dead batteries is almost entirely eliminated.

On Wednesday May 25, 2005, I learned that I could have eliminated the Combiner 50. I could have used the auxiliary charge lead off the F150. The auxiliary charge lead would go to your electronics/house battery. Then tie the grounds together. The F150 has the ability to charge two batteries independently. The engine battery would get charged from the main battery cable. You can still have a 1-2-all battery switch installed but it would be for paralleling the two banks together in an emergency (dead battery) situation only. You can make the wire yourself and cut the connector off inside the cowling. For convenience, the aux wire kit is about $50.00 and has the nice molded connector on it and a 12 ft section of high quality wire included.

On Tuesday May 17, 2005, work continues on our 210. We installed the 3/4 inch white starboard onto the floor of the electronics box. There was still quite a bit of flexing, so we mounted three strip pieces of 1/2 inch white starboard under the thicker 3/4 inch. One strip, the largest one, was placed in the center between the two pieces of electronics. Other smaller strips were placed under the center of each piece of electronics. This made the floor more stable and the electronics pieces do not lean in toward each other. Besides bolting thru the starboard and the bottom of the electronics box seven times to mount the electronics equipment, we still had to use two screws at the rear of the box to keep everything from bouncing. There was flex, and then there was more flex.

We removed and replaced the Triumph factory standard Lenco Switch #124, with the Lenco tactile switch with L.E.D. indicators and retractor, Part #123. Lenco claims that this is the first switch to integrate a completely waterproof switch with a trim tab indicator. Among the features we liked were:
  • It has a built-in retract feature returns tabs to a fully retracted position when power is removed.

  • Two High intensity L.E.D. indicator displays show the exact position of your trim tabs at all times.

  • Photo Eye reads ambient light and adjusts the L.E.D. indicator display intensity for optimum viewing in direct sun light.

  • Backlit key pad graphics for optimum night viewing.

  • We mounted our new Blue Sea Systems 12 position with ground ATO/ATC fuse block. The factory installed fuse block will still serve as a ground for the original factory installed equipment and will also serve as a constant on fuse block for the Floscan 5410-20A-1 so its calculations are maintained, the AM/FM radio so the station settings are not lost, and the bilge pump.

  • The Floscan has a small 1/2 Amp in line fuse, and so far that is the only inline fuse we are keeping.
We installed the Raymarine optional high performance transom mount transducer kit. The kit includes the retractable transom mounting kit and utilizes the M256 High Performance Depth transducer. This thing is huge. In order to install it correctly, we had to remove the starboard transom drain ball scupper. We did utilize one of the included wedges and four stainless steel bolts as spacers so that water could exit the starboard side of the boat. We do understand that if we have a severe problem of water entering the boat at this location, we will have to go back and install a rubber scupper valve. We also need to be able to flush the “stuff” out of the boat. This is indeed a balancing act. Only time will tell if we did the install correctly. We really hated the thought of spending so much for this transducer. What convinced us was what many others had to say on the subject. The examples that convinced me went something like this; do you spend a lot of money getting a truck to pull your boat, only to put a small four-cylinder engine in it? Or, do you buy an expensive rod and reel and save money by using string? Needless to say, I bought the argument and the more expensive transducer.

We also mounted (can’t say installed) the main electronics. We mounted on the starboard our Raymarine equipment. We first mounted our C120 that we plan to have as our primary GPS with radar overlay. We also mounted our L1260DRC, which primarily will be our fish finder, but will also serve as our backup GPS. The brackets for both units are fastened thru the 3/4 inch white starboard and the floor of the electronics box with stainless steel screws, flat washers, and locking bolts. Getting those flat washers and bolts into place was not easy -- definitely a two person job. We also ran the various cables for both units down to the bottom of the electronics area.


We had originally wanted the L1260D Color Echo Sounder System. When we found that this was not available because it had been discontinued and sold out, we found someone willing to sell the L1260DRC Color Echo Sounder System with Raychart for less than the pricing we had found on the L1260D. Now that was just luck. We had always wanted a separate fish finder, but to get a fish finder and a backup GPS for less money, what a bargain. The L1260 also comes with the remotely mounted Digital Sounder Module. If I had gone to the C80 for the fish finder, I would have had to purchase the Digital Sounder Module separately and the screen would have been smaller than the L1260. So, with the L1260DRC I was able to get the same screen resolution as the C80, a backup GPS so I did not have to buy a handheld, and a larger screen to help these old eyes see the fish better.

On Wednesday May 18, 2005, we still have work that can be done before we have to stop and wait on the UPS truck. Our first task of the day was to run the cable from the transducer to the DSM250, Raymarine’s "black box" Digital Sounder Module. We first found another piece of nylon rope/string to pull thru to serve as our new pull cord. We then carefully attached the end of the cable from the Raymarine transducer with electrical tape. Next, we applied a liberal coating of liquid soap, and started pulling the cable thru the rather small black tube in the starboard aft locker toward the center console. We pulled, pushed, complained, and failed. After a call to Dick at Merritt Marine, we removed the rear center deck plate. Then we could see the much larger PVC pipe that goes to the floor of the center console. It was a relatively simple task to fish the snake from the rear of the boat to the plastic boot in the floor of the center console. We had success. While this method worked for us, we do wonder why Triumph installed such a small tube to run wires from the starboard aft locker to the center console. I sure would like to see one of their engineer’s do our installation, with what is already in that pipe.


We next tackled the electronics that we had mounted yesterday. We mounted the DSM250 Digital Sounder Module in the center console and found we needed to move the Combiner 50 up slightly so wires would fit properly. The instructions say to mount the DSM250 so that the wires enter from the bottom of the unit, but that would mean that you could never see the lights on the bottom of the unit that might warn you of a problem, so we compromised and mounted it on its side. Besides, the curvature at the front of the center console made the suggested mounting much more difficult, if not impossible,

We installed all of the wires from the electronics to the new 12-position fuse block. We also modified the plastic door that covers the batteries so it would fit properly with all the new wires that we used.


On Saturday May 21, 2005, we removed the two batteries that came on the boat. We then removed the two battery trays and using a skill saw, we cut one end out of each tray. We have purchased two Lifeline, Group 31 AGM Batteries and while the width was the same as the old ones, the Group 31’s are longer and higher. We cut and placed a piece of starboard at the end of the new batteries to take the place of the end’s we cut off and purchased two 42 inch battery tie down straps to take care of the higher batteries. Lifeline batteries have a 5-year pro-rated warranty with a 1-year free replacement. Their specifications are available at LifeLine Batteries.

By the way, we were informed that the charging system on the Yamaha F150 does not like deep cycle batteries. The specifications on the one’s I purchased are much higher than that specified by Yamaha. I purchased two type 31 Deep Cycle Advanced AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries. The Cold Cranking Amps at 68 degrees is 880, Rated Cap Amp Hrs 20 Hr Rate is 105, and Minutes of Discharge at 25 Amps is 195. The Yamaha representative I spoke to stated that the gelled electrolyte batteries will fail very fast but that he had not read anything concerning the newer advanced AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries. I also talked to a Yamaha technician and he had nothing but good to say for my purchase. I guess only time will tell if I made the right or wrong choice. I sure do not want anyone making a battery purchase based on what I did.

Yamaha F150 Battery Specifications are:
  • Minimum Cold Cranking Amps (CCA/SAE): 512 Amps

  • Minimum Marine Cranking Amps (MCA/ABYC) 675 Amps

  • Minimum Reserve Capacity (RC/SAE) 182 Minutes

  • Yamaha F150 Alternator Output for battery DC: 35 Amps
On Monday May 23, 2005, our first task was to install the Pathfinder Smart Heading Sensor with the Gyro Stabilized fluxgate compass system. This unit is strongly recommended by Raymarine if you are going to overlay the GPS chartplotter with the Pathfinder Plus radar image. Our concern was for the fluxgate compass. It cannot be mounted within three feet of the batteries; it is water resistant -- not water proof, they want it to be low in the boat, and not in the forward one third. After talking to Raymarine, we decided that the safest spot would be on the port side of the mega hold, just aft of the hinge. With the fishing package cooler in place, the rear half of the hatch will normally be closed, so we hope people will not step on it by accident. We ran the wire from the fluxgate compass thru the mega hold drain to the rear of the boat, and then fished the wire thru the large PVC pipe to the center console. I am sure that others will find a better location, but that was the best we could think of.

Using the Icom MB-75 Flush Mount Kit, we mounted the black Icom IC-M502a - VHF Marine Radio into the area to the right of all the gauges. This is a great looking unit with all the features we wanted. We will have the M502a talking to the GPS so it will have our location in case we need to press that red distress button.

We next drilled holes in the radar arch for all the wires that we had to run inside it. One hole for the VHF antenna lead, one hole for the AM/FM antenna lead, one hole for all the radar mount wires (radar, GPS, and anchor light), and a larger hole near the bottom of the rear arch leg, port side, to feed all the wires into. We also drilled and threaded the holes that will be used to install the two Shakespeare Style 4187-HD extra heavy-duty stainless steel ratchet mounts.


We had wanted 8 foot antennas, but they would not fold correctly to use on our folding radar arch and still get inside the garage, so went to 4 foot ones. We really liked everything we read about Digital antennas, so we went with the Digital 528-VW 4-foot VHF in white and the Digital 531-AW 4-foot AM/FM antenna in white.

On Tuesday May 24, 2005, we started trying to figure out how we might get all those wires down from the radar arch and into the center console.
First, we had to decide where we were going to drill the hole into the top of the gunwale. Do we drill behind the rear post or between the two posts? We attached wire to each side of the rear post and raised and lowered the arch to help determine which wire moved the least and which wire would be out of the way when fishing. Placing the wire between the two posts gave us less binding and a position where less harm would come to it.

We called Dick at Merritt Marine for his input and suggestions. He said that normally the foam does not go all the way to the top of the gunwale and there is normally a little opening next to the fuel line to feed the wires down. Dick suggested that we next fish a snake to the rear of the boat from the bottom of the fuel lines. He said to next fish a snake from the plastic boot in the bottom of the center console to the rear of the boat, but to stay on top of the fuel tank. I just wish we could have followed Dick’s advice, but unfortunately, the gunwales were full to the top with hard foam and there was not even a hint of an opening next to the fuel line. We decided to think of other means of getting the wires to the center console. We wanted to go with Dick’s idea, but we also wanted to get the boat in the water as soon as possible, so digging out the foam for the next month or two was not at the top of our want to do list. We decided to put together some inch and one half PVC to run the wires in. We ended up with a plumber’s nightmare, but it works. The radar wire is so big that each wire had to be run thru the PVC one piece of PVC at a time. If we ever have to take this apart, I am going with the two inch PVC the next time.


We mounted the Raystar 125 GPS Sensor to the radar mount and added the new electrical wire needed for the anchor light on the radar mount. Next, we installed the radar mount to the radar arch and attached the 24" Pathfinder 4kW Radome Antenna to the mount. WOW, it sure looks big. Maybe I should have gone with the 2kW instead of the 4kW; it would have been a little smaller.

We purchased the radar mount from East Shore Marine, LLC, which is located in Naples, FL. (Not sure if they are still in business). They designed a custom forward leaning radar mount with anchor light and GPS antenna mount. The anchor light and GPS antenna mount was positioned to limit any interference with the radar and they had to be away from the motor when the radar arch was lowered. They built and delivered a truly custom mount and they were a pleasure to work with.

As we got closer to the time when we had to get all the separate electronic pieces talking to each other, we got concerned. We could not see where we had a way of connecting everything. We had no choice but to call Raymarine looking for guidance. The person we talked to sounded as if he knew what he was talking about. He said what we were doing was not described in any of the manuals. On the technician’s recommendation, we ordered a Raymarine D244 Seatalk Junction Box, which is a Junction Box for Seatalk Digital Instruments, and another Seatalk cable. We are back to waiting on a parts delivery.

On Wednesday May 25, 2005, we moved the boat with the mounted radar dome outside the garage. This was more difficult than we had imagined. Sitting in the garage, our measurements indicated that we had one and one-half inches to spare. Unfortunately, we did not take into account that the driveway slopes down toward the street, which makes the rear of the boat go higher. We first discovered that the garage door in the raised position was too low, so we adjusted the garage door. Next, with the radar arch sitting on the brackets to hold it off the motor when the arch is in the down position, the radar dome was still too high to clear the top of the door opening. We removed the brackets and carefully lowered the radar dome onto a towel that we placed on top of the motor. Finally, we succeed and the boat is outside.


Now we secured the wires going into the radar mount and laced up the canvas top. We also turned the VHF antenna mount 180 degrees so that the release was easier to reach when the top was up. We installed flex tubing over the exposed wires from the radar dome to the radar arch and from the radar arch to the boat gunwale.

We then tested the motor with the “M-Y Wedge” transom saver installed. With the transom saver installed, the motor is too high for us to lower the radar arch onto the brackets to hold it off the motor when the arch is in the down position. If we ever want to travel more than a short distance, we will have to purchase some new material and build new and longer supports.

Just before it rained, we moved the boat back into the garage. The rest of the day was spent redoing some of the electronics wiring.




On Thursday May 26, 2005, we are waiting on the parts we ordered. About all we can do today is to install our AM/FM radio. We had ordered and received the Poly-Planar Weather Enclosure (WC400). The gasketed cover is designed to protect our stereo from the harsh marine environment. We had already decided to mount the radio under the center of the console. We had purchased a $100.00 stereo from a big box store along with a four-year warranty for $20.00. We also had to cut out holes in the side of the center console to mount the Poly-Planar MA-6600 Platinum Series Waterproof Speakers. These are round white 6 1/2" 400-Watt speakers. While my son wanted 8-inch speakers with a sub woofer, these sound just fine. It is our hope that the speakers will last and if the radio dies, it is within the first four years.

On Friday May 27, 2005, we installed the Raymarine D244 Seatalk Junction Box for Seatalk Digital Instruments and installed the final Raymarine D284 1M Seatalk Cable from the C120 to the Junction Box. We adjusted the wiring to confirm to the Raymarine recommendation so that the GPS would be recognized and obtain a fixed position.
We installed the Navionics Gold XL3 Chart for the Raymarine C120. We purchased the US Southeast card 1G906XL3. We also installed the C-Map NT + Card for L1260DRC. We purchased the card with close to the same coverage as we had for the C120; card M-NA-C305.

We connected the VHF to NEMA and tested all systems except the Fishfinder and the Pathfinder Smart Heading Compass. That testing and setup will have to wait until the boat is in the water.

On Saturday May 28, 2005, we wired up the charger, attaching insulated clamps to the 10 gauge wire we had purchased and attaching a 14 gauge 9 foot 3 Wire Grounded Cord for Battery Charger. We also purchased a five-foot length of stainless steel bimini tubing and fabricated new rods to hold the radar arch up for traveling. We had to increase their length by almost 5 inches. We also installed a clamp we fashioned from a length of flat stainless to the back of the AM/FM radio, so hopefully it will be more stable and not move up and down as much.


On Sunday May 29 and Monday May 30, 2005, we spent our days doing cleanup. Every workspace in the garage was still loaded up with boxes, packing material, plastic, etc. Cleaning and putting away was necessary. We also had products that needed to be registered, and we needed to set up folders for items so we could find things in the future.
While putting things away, we read more about the Blue Sea Systems 12 position fuse block. Was I embarrassed when I read that there was supposed to be a fuse from DC Positive, up to a maximum of 125 Amp’s, to the positive feed. Well, nothing to do but head back to the store, where we purchased the Blue Sea Systems MAXI Fuse Block and two 40 Amp MAXI Fuses (one for a spare). The factory had installed a 30 Amp fuse on the old standard fuse block, but with all the items I added, I felt jumping to 40 Amps was OK. Now I feel safer and glad that I am reading everything I can. I just know I will miss something else, but at least I am trying.

After installing the MAXI Fuse Block, we decided that this was the time to break out the Liquid Electrical Tape and the Boeshield T-9 Lubricant. With the boat being stored in the garage, some people have said that using these products was not necessary, but I try to go with safety. Only time will tell if I used these products liberally enough and on the correct items.

Time to Name the Boat

On Monday May 30, 2005, Memorial Day, we finally came up with a name for the boat. While at the home of my wife’s sister, relaxing by the pool, what came over the speakers was one of my favorite songs by Robert Palmer – “Simply Irresistible”.
In case you have forgotten, some of the lyrics are:

Simply irresistible she’s so fine, there’s no tellin’ where the money went
Simply irresistible she’s all mine, there’s no other way to go

She’s unavoidable, I’m backed against the wall
She gives me feelings like I never felt before
I’m breaking promises, she’s breaking every law
She used to look good to me, but now I find her

Simply irresistible
She’s so fine, there’s no tellin’ where the money went
Simply irresistible she’s all mine, there’s no other way to Go



irresistible

On Tuesday June 7, 2005, our new 210 CC finally got wet. My son and I went to the ramp in Venice, FL at 7:00 AM, went down the intercoastal a little ways, and then went out to the gulf were we had to do some more setup work on the electronics and continue our break in period. We returned to the dock to pick up the wife and gave her a ride for an hour or so. All together, we put in a little over four hours of our ten break in hours. The weather was GREAT, the gulf was calm, and all was right with the world. We loved it.

The Radar, GPS, Fish Finder, VHF, backup GPS, FM radio, all work. We do need to fill the boat with gas to check the FloScan calibration, and that might need some adjustment. The only gauge that that does not work is the fuel gauge. Regardless of the boat speed, bow up or down, it flashed that it was empty all morning. We will try and check some wires tomorrow.

Our thanks go to Randy Durham, Dick Cabble, Carl Merritt, Kevin Belcher, and a host of others that helped us finally have this wonderful day.

On Wednesday June 8, 2005, we picked up two (2) 2 3/8'' Sea Dog - Stainless Snap Hooks. It was suggested that we get them to help prevent the top of the center console from folding back while traveling on land or the water. We also picked up, 24 inches of 5/16 inch safety chain, a snap hook, and a stainless steel stop nut, bolt, and two fender washers. We needed these parts to create a safety chain we will use on the boats front bow hook.

After communicating with Dick at Merritt Marine, we were finally able to track down a loose wire that was causing our problem with the fuel gauge. To be fair, I would bet it is something that we did as we were working on the electrical part of the boat. Anyway, with Dick’s help, problem solved. We put everything back together, and with the connections by the fuel-sending unit at the rear of the fuel tank, we applied a generous amount of liquid electrical tape. Now all of our electronics is working.

We will do our best to answer any questions.

Vic in Osprey, Florida
 
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