Dumping fuel as a precaution the easy way.

cmb7684

Participating Member
City
Metairie
My fuel is rather old in my 210cc and I did not want to chance running old fuel through my honda 150.

I decided to drain the fuel from the tank.To empty the tank here is what I tried and what worked and what did not if any of you have to do this in the future.


I'm pretty sure this will work on other boats and motors. I first bought that hand pump thing at Autozone (also sold at lowe's) that is supposed to be a siphon. After buying extra tubes to try to shove it down the fill line the long and short is it would not work. Simply put I could never get even a 1/4" tube to make the bends enough to get down in the fuel tank.


Plan B was to pull the motor cover and disconnect the main fuel line coming from the tank that connects to the filter. I located it and it was 5/16 fuel line. I connected the same siphon pump that I bought and all the extra hoses needed only to find out that it has to be continuously pumped to squirt about an ounce of fuel each pump and would have taken a lifetime to pump out the fuel tank. So this was a failure.

Plan C I then tried to use mouth suction and lower the line below the hull and for some reason this did not work out either as I could not keep flow going.

Plan D which worked like a champ was to purchase 1 electric fuel pump sold at Autozone for about 45.00. You also have to buy and connect and inline 5amp fuse for this pump. You can connect this however you want but I encourage you to buy extra 5/16 fuel line and extra wire to give your self some slack. I connected the suction side of the pump to directly to the main 5/16 hose on the boat that supplies my Honda 150 at the fuel filter. If you want you can use a barb connection and lengthen it depending on your set up. Totally up to you. Just make sure you do not connect it too tight as you will need to unhook it when you are finsihed and will not want to damage your motors fuel line by having to pry the hose off the barb because it was shoved deep on the barb. You then hook another length of 5/16 hose to the output side and place the end in a gas can (I used a 55 gallon drum). I would say use 5 feet on each side as a standard but use more or less depending on what you need. You then connect the positive and negative on the battery of a car or other 12 volt connection. The pump will pump at 4 to 7 psi which is about 25 gallons every hour and a half give or take. Nevertheless you will empty you tank this way without pulling it out. The only mechanical work you will have to do is remove the engine cover and unhook 1 fuel line and connect it back when you are done. I guess the entire set up cost me about 65.00 or so.

I got out about 45 gallons of fuel and the pump started sucking air. I did not manually look at the tanks to see if they were empty but I'm pretty sure it got it all out or if not most of it.

If your fuel lines are 3/8 or another size dont forget to buy barb adapters to adapt the correct size to connect the lines to the pump.


NOTE: Here is a pdf link to instructions for setting up the pump also not you will need teflon tape to seal the screw on filter they provide with the pump.
http://www.mr-gasket.com/pdf/12S_42S.pdf
 
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Could you please tell us what make and model electric pump you used for this fuel transfer.
Thanks
Davekfl
 
here is a link to it on Autozones web site to a list of fuel pumps.

AutoZone.com | Fuel Pump

Mr. Gasket/4 to 7 PSI 35 GPH electric fuel pump for domestic carburetors

In the list the part number is 125. I used this pump. I see on the list there are others that may be able to pump faster or have a higher rated GPH but they are a bit more expensive and for what I needed it was perfect. Also the pump I used was for gas not diesel but they do make a diesel pump from the same company for 59.99 as shown in the link above.

This link should be a direct link to the pump I bought.

AutoZone.com | 4 to 7 PSI 35 GPH electric fuel pump for domestic carburetors | 4 to 7 PSI 35 GPH electric fuel pump for domestic carburetors



I would think any electric fuel pump from any auto parts store would work just read their set up instructions so you know what you will need to hook it up before you leave the store to avoid another trip.
 
Here are a few other links that carry the same pump some at a better price.

MR. Gasket Electric Fuel Pump 4-7 PSI, 35 GPH PN 12S

Mr. Gasket Performance Group :: Product Details

Mr. Gasket - Electric Fuel Pump - 2 Wire/12V Negative Ground Only 12S*-*Mr Gasket Co. Fuel Pumps*-*Fuel Pumps*-*Air & Fuel*-*Vic Hubbard Speed & Marine

Please note I have also updated the original post to include the pdf file for instructions on setting up the pump and noted you will also need teflon tape in the set up.
 
I just placed my order for the pump with Amazon.com. Since the fuel line on my 170 Bass is 3/8" I'll have to get different barbed fittings. I think the pump has fittings for 5/16". I was going to take off the fuel line at the 10 micron fuel filter that I installed ( The line from the fuel tank to the filter) and just run the line to the input to the pump. I have ethanol gas in my tank that has been sitting a long time and hopefully I can drain it all out and start fresh even though I have treated this gas. I sure wish I could find non ethanol gas in the Sarasota area.
Davekfl
 
Im sure it will work. I just wanted to cut it off before it could get anymore through the motor so I pulled the line at the fuel filter as soon as it comes in. I'm sure you could tap into it further down the line through thte motor but have not tried it and did not want to pull anymore through the motor.

Yes the pump fittings are 5/16 so if you have a 3/8 line you will need a 3/8 to 5/16 barb fitting reducer to get out of the motor and then connect the 5/16 line from the reduced barb fitting to the inlet on the pump then go 5/16 line from the output on the pump into your fuel container you plan to dump in.

Im pretty sure this would work for any application including cars. It may even be easier on a car to just dump the line down the fill valve is it will get down in the tank. I just couldnt make that work on my 210 as the line would not make the bend.

In another post by Randy I saw where the factory said to get down the fill line and suction out but it simply was not possible for me and this seemed to be an easier way.

While we are on the pumping subject I wonder if we may be able to use a similar process on a switch set up to pump that water out the transom from time to time. I will leave that as an idea for another thread.

Let us know how you made out.
 
Davekfl, try

Max's Market2616 Stickney Point Road, Sarasota, FL 34231-6020(941) 921-9287‎

They have "recreational" fuel. NO ethanol in it. Priced as high as the higher priced fuel, but it works for me.
 
Update to the pump set up:

I was going to just junk the gas but my father in law hates things to go to waste and asked if he could have it. I have no use for it as my truck is diesel and my wife's car is gas and I wouldnt send her out on the road with possible bad or old gas.

We pumped about 10 gallons in the other night as his car was low on fuel. It burned just fine. He came back today and the pump would not pump anything. I assume some trash from the 55 gallon drum or the boat tank was caught in the filter that comes with the pump. Needless to say I do not see any replacement filters that screw on to the pump at autozone and was not sure if that was the problem or if it was the pump. I returned the pump at autozone and have them give me a new one. I also decided to add a clear plastic in line fuel filter to catch trash before it gets to the filter for the pump to avoid the problem again. The clear plastic also allows me to see that gas is flowing very easy. I also bought alligator clips to connect to the power supply to clip on to the battery posts so I do not have to stand there holding the wires on the entire time.

Started it up and it pumped about 20 gallons in his tank just fine. So the trouble was either the pump or the filter that comes with it but either way it may be a good idea to connect a plastic inline filter to catch trash so you do not have any issues with the pump becoming clogged. The filter was 4.99 and I can replace it again as needed as it is a regularly stocked item.

The point is even if you do not plan on using your dumped gas you may pick up some trash from your boats tank. The best thing to do is filter it with an easy to get filter so your pump works ok and you are not looking for the screw on filter that comes with the pump only to find out you have to order it and wait for it to come in.
 
Vic
If you use nonethanol in your boat do you still treat it with Startron or Stabil additive for prolonged storage?
Davekfl
 
DavekFL.

We have used Sta-Bil since boat was new.

Just purchased their new Marine product on sale this week.

Also use Sta-Bil in all my yard equipment.

We have never had a problem with Sta-Bil.
 
I bought the Mr. Gasket pump at Amazon and it arrived yesterday. Rigged it up with an inline fuse and on/off switch. Used it today to empty my tank on my 170 Bass. Took about a half hour and worked great. Its hard to tell if it got all of the fuel but it started sucking air so I quit. I connected to the fuel line coming from the tank to my water separator. Not the fastest pump in the world but did the job so cant complain. I did notice that this pump got some bad reviews in that it would just stop working after one use but there were some reviews that praised it. Who knows! All I know is the it worked once for me so far. we'll see next time.
Davekfl
 
yeah maybe something to think about. It worked as far as forming condensation if you leave it empty weill I do not know on that either way but if you have to drop the tank this was the easiest way.

I had one pump stop working on me which i posted about earlier. The pump would run but would not pump liquid after one use. I think it clogged the screw on filter that comes with it but Autozone changed it out for me without any problems . I have not fooled with my pump set up recently so who knows if it is working ok after the last use. I did add an extra filter as a precaution in line on the suctions side.

You are correct that it does not pump very fast but usually you can just let it do its thing and check on it from time to time. They had higher rated pumps with a better capacity but they were more expensive. It all depends on what you are looking to do.
 
The reason I pumped out the old gas was to replace it with non- ethanol gas not to leave the tank empty. Even the gas I removed was treated with startron but it was real old and had to go. I generally keep my tank pretty full but I dont use the boat enough to use up the gas on a regular basis which is a problem. We'll try non ethanol for a while and see what happens. I treat all my gas with startron or stabil ( not in the cars though).
Davekfl
 
With my son's help, we followed the above instructions and mounted the pump and an on/off switch to a piece of 2x4 that can easily be wedged into the compartment where the fuel/water separator and the electrical connection for the motor is located. Easy to put together, easy to install and remove after use.

For those that live anywhere close to where hurricanes might be, what an excellent source for fuel in a power outage.

Would recommend this to everyone.
 
I have done exactly the same thing as in this post and find it VERY useful to have a pump like this for a few reasons. In my first year with the boat, I wanted to drain the tank in the fall, in order not to have the gas go bad over the winter. I don't do this anymore because I also like the comfort of having 140 gallons of fresh stabilized fuel around for the winter for the generator in case of prolonged power outage. In the fall when I am ready to winterize, I run the boat as low as possible, add stabilizer and fill the tank pretty full. Then I run/flush the engine for a long while to clean the salt out and ensure that the stabilized gas gets through the entire fuel system and engine.

That said, I have two important inputs to this conversation:
1. I'm getting on my soapbox for this one ... NEVER, EVER DUMP GASOLINE ON THE GROUND! A tiny bit of gas will contaminate massive amounts of groundwater, underground wells, etc. If your gasoline is contaminated with water or phase seperated, there are better ways to get rid of it. In my case, I had some contaminated gas and I brought it to my towns hazardous waste day. Told them what it was and they took it, no questions asked. Even if I had to buy 20 gas cans for this exercise, better than potentially millions in cleanup and liability cost for dumping it on the ground.
Also, there are commercial companies that will pump and dispose contaminated gas. More expensive, but still better than dumping.
2. For powering the pump, I put a long lead with alligator clips onto the pump and connect it to the battery on my truck, parked a good distance and upwind from the boat. Gas fumes are heavier than air and will fill up the hull of the boat, so if you are connecting to the boat battery, you stand a pretty good chance of blowing yourself up when you connect/disconnect the clips to the battery in your boat.

Hope this helps...
 
Try using a cigarette lighter plug with a ignition protected switch to avoid sparks. I also make sure to ground the whole rig to the boat before switching it on and have an ignition protected circuit breaker added, just in case the pump or wires heat up after running awhile. The pump I use is a Universal Carter marine fuel pump (72gph) that is sealed & designed for lift. Most fuel pumps are required to be lower than the tank & gravity fed. for added measure I added a Racor fuel filter/water separator. So now, while the boat is sitting still, bow high, on the trailer, the contaminated fuel tends to settle in a layer in the bottom rear of the tank. And my not wanting to discard all the fuel....... I got a 5 gallon clear water cooler jug that I pump the first few gallons into, while checking it until I see the fuel is clear. I then pump the rest into my Truck and Cars and top off the vehicles with high test to bring the boat's degraded fuel back up to acceptable Octane levels. What's left is the phase separated/ contaminated fuel that I pumped into the jug, which I dispose of properly. Even though this process is a real pain in the a**, you don't want to put contaminated fuel in your other vehicles that may cause problems with them as well. ;)

My intention now is to empty the tank after each use so the fuel doesn't have a chance to sit very long in the boat. Then I'll just fill up the night before taking the boat out. That way the boat will always have a fresh tank of fuel to minimize problems on the water.

transfer1.jpgtransfer2.jpgtransfer4.jpgtransfer3.jpg
 
You're right about one thing, the siphons you buy at most auto parts stores are junk.

Rather good thinking to use an automotive fuel pump. That's the type of creative thinking that makes this forum what it is. The big caution I would give evryone is always make sure the electric pump you are trying to use is ignition protected and rated for gasoline and alcohol.

Those looking for a cheapear route can purchase a 10' moeller universal outboard fuel lune kit for about 20 bucks at most marine suppliers. These kits are identical to the motor-specific sets but don't have any fittings on them. Use the primer bulb to start the siphon and always put the fuel into an approved container.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
 
Something to consider at 3 plus bucks a gallon, is to do a little recycling / treatment of this fuel yourself ;) This by running that fuel through a device like this into a separate can for sorting and or storage.

YouTube - Fuel Filter Funnel Removes Water from Gasoline by Mr Funnel

Then use it for your other power equipment ;) Not everything you are pulling out of these tanks is going to be straight water and once you get the water and crud out of it, should still go bang :)

Then go dump the water and crud left behind into some local waste oil tank for them to then run through their local lube oil purifier systems.
 
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