- Pine Island
Which can be a near constant battle made worse by heat (or just your local / sprinkler water) as you are trying to get the Truck / Boat dry "Before" the spots can actually form... Some spots, can get etched very deep onto the clear or gel coats from the Sun on our favorite toys, and become a Royal Pain requiring the use of polishes or even compounds and a buffer to remove! Here are some tips to help control such some, I have not seen on other articles on this subject that may help you
Now, to help keep that from happening and short of buying an expensive, very expensive, Water De-ionizer systems which many run over $400.00 these you might find handy and this what I do, to help keep that under control, and maybe better stated "Buy you more time to get it dried off before they can develop" are a few simple and pretty low cost steps
- Get totally set up for all the cleaning steps, and have everything in place before any water makes it onto the Truck / Boat you are washing! That time you spend to go get say... The Towel, or dig out and plug in the leaf blower, is helping create the issue... Even worse, when working in the Sun or winds that are trying to dry it off faster than you can remove the water. I have seen times that one side was pretty much dry, before I could even get around to the other!
- Make sure, you are using a PH balanced Car / Boat soap (not dish soap) AND the correct ratio of soap to water, in your wash bucket. More suds is not always better, and that film left behind can really create havoc as it dries.
- Naturally, wash and then dry off quickly any side of the Truck or Boat that is in the direct Sun last... Again, it is all about time and how little you have before spots start to form.
- Again, once rinsed off, I have my leaf blower already plugged in setting there ready too blow off the Truck / Boat. This really helps in getting all that water off quickly and around the grill, window seals, lug nuts, etc. etc.. This also help remove it from those places so it does not run down later on, and create possible problems when trying to apply paint sealants or other protection chemicals.
- Then (pending what I am planning to do after blowing the majority of the water off naturally) I use a quality spray detailer on a microfiber towel as a "Drying Aid" which works very well in getting up what little is actually left.
6. I also use on my hose water line a little RV water filter. Those can really help remove chemicals like chlorine and other heavy metals from the water as you use it. They are not that expensive, and seem to last quite some time
7. And of course, there are some other spray chemicals intended on helping get rid of them after they have formed and some do help. I have recently found though, that the use of a quality Graphene paint sealant, will generally not allow them to get etched into the Clear or Gel Coats, and can get wiped right off!
Hope this helps! And if you have some other tips due to the water conditions in your area since some locations, are much worse than others... Please, do share them with the rest of our Community here
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