Installing a Water Pump Kit

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Installing a Water Pump Kit
by Steve Stephens

This post describes my experience installing a water pump kit.

All parts were purchased from my friends Andy and Lisa at Shipyard Island Marine Engine Parts. The parts that were used are all included in the Yamaha Water Pump Kit. Thanks to THE BOAT MONKEY for his supervision and comic relief.

Be sure the engine is in neutral. Remove the lower unit cowling. There are 6 hex bolts total. You do not have to perform this step, but I did not want to damage the cowling.
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Be sure to keep up with the "tab nuts" that may fall out of the slots in the cowling. They are located in the 2 bottom holes on the front side of the cowling.
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Remove the rubber plug to access the trim tab bolt.
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Tilt the motor up and remove the prop.
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Make note of the location of the tab.
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Remove the trim tab bolt.
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Remove the other two bolts from under the lower unit.
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Remove the other 6 bolts from the lower unit, 3 on each side.
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Carefully work the unit up and down while pulling outward; the lower unit should come free. There is no speedometer tube that you have to disconnect.
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My Black and Decker Workhorse provided a stable platform to perform the work.
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Remove the 4 water pump housing bolts.
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Remove the housing.
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Remove the o-rings.
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Remove the SS driveshaft cover. I used a large screwdriver and worked around the cover.
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Slide the plastic compression ring off.
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Remove the SS impeller housing.
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Remove the three SS washers. I kept them in the same order for re-install.
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Remove the impeller.
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Remove the woodruff key. I used an awl, worked perfectly.
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Remove the SS bottom plate.
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Remove the gasket.
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Clean off any gasket material you see.
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Blow the area clean.
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Remove the old dowel pins.
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Install the new dowel pins.
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Install the new gasket.
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Install the new bottom plate.
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Install new woodruff key.
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Install the new impeller. The side with the dots is up and the side with the slashes is down. Slide it down the shaft and align the slot in the impeller with the key. You should be able to push it all the way down with your hands, although it may take a little effort.
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Clean and re-install the SS washers.
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Install the new impeller housing. It will help to put some grease around the walls of the housing. Use one hand to bend the fins of the impeller while you carefully push down with the other hand. Remember, the shaft turns clockwise, so the fins need to be bent accordingly. The center of the opening at the bottom of the housing should be pointing to about 4 o'clock if you look at it from the prop-end of the lower unit.
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Clean and re-install the plastic compression ring.
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Clean and re-install the SS driveshaft cover. I used an adjustable wrench for this. I opened up the jaws of the wrench until it would clear the driveshaft, then let it rest on the SS cover and used a hammer to gently bump it down.
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Clean the water pump housing. I applied some grease to the slots for the o-rings to help hold them in place.
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Re-install the water pump housing. Be sure the o-rings stay in place. As you slide the housing down, rotate the driveshaft to align the impeller housing with the pump housing until it slides all the way down over the dowel pins.
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Apply some anti-seize compound to the threads of the new bolts and install them.
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Be sure to apply some grease to the fittings for the water pump inlet and the speedometer tube. Apply grease to the driveshaft splines and shifter splines.
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While you have the lower unit off, now is a good time to blow out the speedometer tube. Mine had stopped working several months ago. Ralph unplugged the tube from the back of the speedometer and used the compressor to blow out the trash.

Re-install the lower unit in the reverse order. Before you put all the bolts back in, make sure the prop shaft turns freely to ensure that the shift rod did not move while you were sliding the unit back on. If it does not spin freely, or if you hear a "clicking" sound, the shift rod is out of alignment and you will need to remove the lower unit, adjust the rod, and re-install the lower unit. When the shift rod is in the NEUTRAL position, the prop should spin FREELY. Be sure to apply some anti-seize compound to every bolt.

Before re-installing the prop, remove the thrust washer and inspect it for wear, re-install it and grease the prop shaft splines.

Hope this helps someone.

Published by permission of HOTSPOT.
 
Nice, Thanks!
 
really NICE , looks just like a real manual reading....I am sure this is simular to a merc...so this will be quite handy..Thanks.
 
wow...i have done this on smaller outboards and until reading this probably would not attempt on my 150. I might actually take a look at least. Great tutorial pics. Well done.

Moltykid
 
good detail.. was the guy on the john deere any help?
 
Installing a Water Pump Kit
by Steve Stephens


Be sure to apply some grease to the fittings for the water pump inlet and the speedometer tube. Apply grease to the driveshaft splines and shifter splines.
wp39.JPG


While you have the lower unit off, now is a good time to blow out the speedometer tube. Mine had stopped working several months ago. Ralph unplugged the tube from the back of the speedometer and used the compressor to blow out the trash.

Re-install the lower unit in the reverse order. Before you put all the bolts back in, make sure the prop shaft turns freely to ensure that the shift rod did not move while you were sliding the unit back on. If it does not spin freely, or if you hear a "clicking" sound, the shift rod is out of alignment and you will need to remove the lower unit, adjust the rod, and re-install the lower unit. When the shift rod is in the NEUTRAL position, the prop should spin FREELY. Be sure to apply some anti-seize compound to every bolt.

Before re-installing the prop, remove the thrust washer and inspect it for wear, re-install it and grease the prop shaft splines.

Hope this helps someone.

Published by permission of HOTSPOT.

Where is the speedometer tube? Is it obvious?
Thanks
 
Good Morning Mike!
Very possible it has another intake location for the Speedo (behind the normal water intake)

Or it was filled in, IF it had a BMS lower unit upgrade where the water pickup was then placed into the nose cone of the lower unit and looks like this?
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If it does not look like this, then the best way to tell is to go on the Yamaha parts catalog online located here:

https://yamahaoutboards.com/en-us/

And follow the steps for your engine make and model (you might need the SN off of it) and then look at a blow up of the lower unit and see how the speedo tube is installed? ;)

Next would be to go to the local Yamaha dealer and have a chat with the Parts and or Service Manager on the subject :cool:

Hope this helps?
 
Dave
Thank You again.
There is no Yamaha dealer within 50 miles of me, the link you left requires a subscription ($39. a month from what I could tell). This schematic I downloaded from Crowley Marine online shows no speedo anything. I am just lost here.
Mike
 

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That is a public link and I use it all the time Mike, strange... Try getting to it from the link below which is the same one you will find on the maintenance link from the main Yamaha Outboard website ;)

http://yamahamc.partsandwarranty.co...4354f327b-6732C95D-0AAE-82F9-68BFA05BD7C289A5

And I am quite sure you are going to need the actual model and SN from the engine which you can find just below the power head :)
 
Dave
The link wants a username and PW?

The model of outboard is F115TLRA, TLRA stands for: T= power trim, L=shaft =20", R=remote control, A= year 2002,
I do not have the serial number with me.
 
User name and PW? I have never had that site or link prompt me for such....? Very strange.

I would 1st advise you clear your Internet cache and the best way to handle all of those chores is to download a free copy of C Cleaner from this link https://www.ccleaner.com/ccleaner/download install and run it, and then reboot and see if that corrects that issue ;) Now there are some extra settings on the program that will allow you to really clean up a lot of saved files in a lot of applications. If you need any help with those settings just let me know and we can chat about them on the phone :D

Next do you have one of these mounted on your stern by chance?
mValq_ug_weezOvKAxIceAQ.jpg

If you do, that is what is driving the Speedo for you boat, and not a pick up inside the lower unit that is being used. Here is another simplified shot of it to show how that type of Pitot tube system works just in case you ever have any issues with it.

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Next thing and hard to see, but based upon the engine information you gave me (SN would come in handy) I attached a couple of .PDF files showing both blow up views from the Yamaha Outboard site. I am of the opinion that if you are going to attempt a water pump impeller swap yourself, I would just be careful and have some extra hands so you can very slowly drop the lower unit "just in case" you do have a tube attached so you can see how it is ran and then disconnect it as needed ;)

Moving on, that dealer that is near you can also look up things in their dealer system, or check with one of the tech's real quick for the "possible" location of the Speedo tube? Usually a quick phone call is all that takes :cool:

Lastly, you can always reach out to Yamaha Technical Direct and they have been a great help to me on several occasions. You can reach them here but again, I would make sure you have the actual S/N of your Outboard so they can drill down to that exact one :)


For questions regarding Yamaha Outboards products and service, please contact our corporate office.

YamahaContactUs.aspx


Yamaha Motor Corporation, USA
1270 Chastain Road
Kennesaw, GA 30144

For questions regarding your Yamaha Outboard call:
(866) 894-1626
For questions regarding your Yamaha Credit Account:
(800) 252-5265

To talk to someone a little closer to home, visit our dealer locator to find the Yamaha Outboards dealer near you.


Hope this helps?
Dave
 

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  • 02 115 lower unit 2.pdf
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Dave
Thank you so much for all the wonderful information, attached is a pic of the data plate so you can see the SN. (which I believe is 312424)
 

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You are Most Welcome!
And it appears from the picture above, that the Speedo hose is running right in front the S/N sticker. Do us a favor and tilt the engine up away from the Stern and take some pictures for us from top to bottom ;)
 
Dave
I call Yamaha and talked to a tech, he said it should be on the front edge of the lower unit, even though there is nothing listed in the parts diagram indicating any Speed-O-meter part (with some indication that this is a speedometer "sensor" "hose" "nipple" anything. I guess you just have to know these things.
I am going to try that c cleaner.
Thanks again
Mike
 
No luck with the CCleaner, I did find the pin hole right where it is supposed to be, I guess it doesn't help when try to see it in the dark:eek:.
Thanks again for all your help.
 
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