Live well pump intake

Germik

Registered Member
Premium Member
I have a 2013 Triumph 170 sportsman. I'm wondering what if there any advantage to plugging up the bottom intake for my live well and relocate it to out the back of the transom? They never put in a shut off valve for the pump, and I want to install a shut off valve anyway. Also, before doing any of this work, it would be nice to know what size threads that they used to connect to pump to the bottom thru-the-hull inlet. Thanks, GerMik
 

Germik

Registered Member
Premium Member
Just a update on my questions. I contacted Johnson pump company, the manufacture of my live well pump. They explained that my straight pump has NPS threads, and most plumbing shut off valves have NPT threads, and installing a shut off valve ahead of the pump, is normally screwed into a seacock fitting, and most seacock come with the valve as part of the seacock. So to check out this, I talked to Carl at Merritt Marine. First, relocating the pump to the transom-he didn't recommend. Second, He confirmed that the factory inlets has straight threads, which a marine seacock fitting will directly attach to, and the outlet of the marine seacock has NPT threads (pipe threads), which a pump with NPT inlet will just screw into. So I ordered a new twin port pump, and a marine seacock with valve. Just waiting for parts now.
 

Germik

Registered Member
Premium Member
2nd update- job completed. I finally got my new seacock and pump installed yesterday. I ran into a few things that were unexpected, and I thought I'd share what I had to do.

First, was the removal of the old live well pump. I had to use short pipe wrench, a aluminum one that I had cut off the handle a long time ago. With that and a but crescent wrench, I was able to turn out the pump body. I was expecting that the pump would have straight treads, from all the info I had, but its inlet had tapered pipe treads. My first thoughts were, just screw in a close 3/4" nipple, then a plumbing ball valve, then my new pump. This maybe would have worked, but I figured that the pump would be too high off the hull. So I seen that the factory used a 3/4" galvanized coupling on top of the inlet fitting. Weired,. but there it was. I used a big plumbing basin wrench, and was able to get the coupling off. As previous treads have mentioned, Triumph used a starboard washer to build up the area for the thru the hull inlet fitting. My new seacock and valve fitting needed to be shimmed. So I used a piece of 5/8" starboard, cut out a center hole for the inlet pipe to fit through, and rough cut a disk to about 3 1/2"round.

Then I had to rout out about 1/2" by 1/4" deep on one side of the center hole. The nut that fastened the inlet fitting, needed to be recessed. Then I glued this piece onto the factory shim. Also added 3 SS screws to keep it from moving. Then, with pipe dope and rule glue, I was able to turn the new seacock on to the inlet pipe. I put 3 more screws through the flange of the seacock, into the plastic bushing that I just put in. Then installing the new live well pump on to the valve was straight forward.

I let it set for a day, then tried it out. Works great, no leaks. So now when I'm bass fishing in the weeds and the live well pump plugs up, I can shut off the valve, pull the pump cartridge out, and remove the weeds that gets sucked up, and I'm back fishing, without leaving the water. This was a frequent problem for me. They should have put some type of screen on the inlet. Anyway, it was a lot of work, but I'm happy. My second Triumph and I still love it. Sorry for no pictures-I still haven"t figured out how to download them.
 

Dave_L1

Administrator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Premium Member
City
Pine Island
State
Florida
Thanks for the follow up! As far as the pictures go...

On your PC Browser (not as easy on a mobile device) just clink on the tool bar where it says "Insert Image" and either use a URL, or location from your PC where those pictures reside. once placed you can then resize them as needed.

Best,
Dave
 
Top