My Transom Well Modification

Codfish

Contributing Member
Premium Member
City
Payette
I know several have made this same modification to their 210CCs. I decided to check my water retention the other day and sure enough I had half full transom voids.

After looking at the job, and the work done by the factory, I decided it could be done better. I was very disappointed in the black sticky sealant used by the factory. I am sure it was easy to work with but it just doesn't cut it for the long haul. I was also disappointed in the fit of the cover plates. They could be cut a tad larger so there is no channel around the edge to hold water.

I first removed the plates by taking the screws out. I had no foam inserts so had to pull them up with a paint can opener. I removed the water and cleaned the void area, then scraped the black gasket material and trimmed the bumps around the screw holes so the surface would be clean and as flat as possible. I wiped the sealing surface of the transom and the plates with some acetone to remove the last of the black sealer.

I remembered that others had added more screws to the plate so I put four more holes around the edge (1 each side). I passed on the corners and hope that will not be a mistake.

Next I looked at the gasketing problem. I was not happy with the old black stuff so ignored that possibility. I then decided to make an inner and an outer gasket or dam with a bead of elastomeric. I ran the two beads around the perimeter of the plates and let them set overnight to skin over and partially harden. Of course I installed the deck plates first. Mine took #8 flat head phillips SS screws 1/2" in length to fasten the plate ring. My plates came from Cabela's, 4" grey to match the transom color. I sealed the plate rings with elastomeric of course.

On day two I found the gasket beads of elasto to be firm but still plyable. I then filled the area between the two beads with a thick bead of fresh elastomeric and let that skin over for about 15 minutes. Then the plates were reinstalled using the original screw holes and the four new ones per plate. The attached photos show the related detail to go with the narrative.

Hope this helps anyone who has yet to do this mod. If you haven't, you will need to some day, guaranteed.

codfish
 

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ILLOGICAL GGC

Contributing Member
City
Washington PARK
State
NC
cod fish
i too am finding that rule works best for me when it is used as a gasket rather than being squeezed out between 2 parts. i created a gasket for the rear floor panel on my 210cc and it keeps water out and allows me to lift it up off the floor without being stuck to the floor.
you may be on to something here. more tests are in the future for me for sure
GGC
 

OspreyVic

Contributing Member
City
Osprey
Codfish, how much rule should I have on hand before starting this modification?

No sense starting without all the required supplies.
 

Codfish

Contributing Member
Premium Member
City
Payette
Ospreyvic, I started with a fresh 10 oz. tube and still have about 1/3 left. I hope it doesn't go bad before I need some more.

Codfish
 

blakinsmith

Participating Member
Lifetime Member
Premium Member
City
Los Gatos
State
CA
Splash Well Mod

Good idea on the two beads Codfish. Wish I read this before I did this mod a couple weeks ago in advance of a week long trip. Sure enough, both cavities completely full of H20 on my 03 boat. BTW, one of gray covers was pretty warped - made it a challenge getting the deck plates not to bind when I reinstalled. Anyhow, after a week in the rain and sea, seems I batted .500 - one splashwell dry, one to be redone as H20 intrusion again.

It is a pleasure to read about your quality mods - always first rate....Barry
 

Stalker

Participating Member
City
Laurens
Codfish,
This looks to be an old problem with the wells. A new problem for me though. I have a 2005 210CC and am still getting over the smell. Blaagh. I was wondering how your mod held up over time? Also, you said you didn't have foam inserts. Was there just empty space? And if you know this, what is the purpose of the void?
 

Swamp_Bear

Contributing Member
City
Wilson
The transom well on my boat is a water and junk retainer big time; I can only assume that since my boat is relatively new (an '06) that none of that perpetual brown liquid is seeping down into those voids.

Stalker has a good question; what ARE those voids for?

Also, with all the mods that I've seen painstakingly done on this forum, why is a permanant solution (plastic welding) not an option?
 

Stalker

Participating Member
City
Laurens
Swamp Bear,
My daughter was standing behind the boat and got a whiff. That was my clue. It was nasty, I can't believe they let this happen.
 

Fishahn

Contributing Member
City
Stowe
I made the mod on my 2001 210 2 yrs ago, unsuccesful, they still fill with water all the time. I drain them every once in a while, real hassle and not that easy to open those lids. look like same lids as codfish used, I guess I need to try to seal again! as far as I can tell, doesn't cause much harm/performance issues with water in there, just annoying and extra weight!
 

Fishahn

Contributing Member
City
Stowe
after looking more closely, my lids are different, I used the clear ones, but same size and brand, I thought clear was better as i can see the water inside without removing lids.

how do you like that Suzuki Codfish? heard nothing but good things about those!
 

Stalker

Participating Member
City
Laurens
Fishahn,
Are your wells empty, or do they have the fillers in them? Mine had fillers in them, I suppose to limit the amount of water able to fill the well. I would rather not use them but I still don't know why they are even there. I got a reply about support for the transom, but that could be done with filling the wells in as well.
 

Fishahn

Contributing Member
City
Stowe
Stalker,
my wells did have the foam filler in them originally, it was water logged and a bit nasty when I checked it out first, so I did remove the filler. now wondering if I should have just left the whole mess alone!

what did support recommend?
 
G

greyoldchief

Guest
I did this mod a year or so ago and used the clear screw on deckplates. Still leaked. I redid everything a month or so ago and used the snap in type deckplates. They have a much better gasket system. Ruled around the outside of the hatch cover. No leaks yet!
 

NCangler

Administrator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
City
Raleigh
State
NC
Greyoldchief, do you have a link to the type plate you used or a picture? I'd like to add this modification to the Triumph Modifications and Maintenance DVD I"m working on so I'd like to find the best solution for this issue. Thanks!
Randy
I did this mod a year or so ago and used the clear screw on deckplates. Still leaked. I redid everything a month or so ago and used the snap in type deckplates. They have a much better gasket system. Ruled around the outside of the hatch cover. No leaks yet!
 

NCangler

Administrator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
City
Raleigh
State
NC
I tried the foam fillers, which limit the volume of water that can accumulate in there, thus less weight. But they were a mess when I pulled the covers to clean out again. Last time I went with the deck access lids and would just unscrew them from time to time and use a wetvac to vacuum the water out. That worked pretty well.
Stalker,
my wells did have the foam filler in them originally, it was water logged and a bit nasty when I checked it out first, so I did remove the filler. now wondering if I should have just left the whole mess alone!

what did support recommend?
 
G

greyoldchief

Guest
Here's a link to the deck plates. I didn't get mine at Boatersworld, but they're the same plate.

What I did was take off the hatch cover and cleaned them. Applied a thick bead of rule around the inside of the hatch (to use as a gasket) and let it set overnight. I then mounted the deck plates and reinstalled the hatch adding extra screws. After tightening everything down, I ruled completely around the outside of the hatch. So far so good.

I had a difficult time with the screw on type plates because my hatch covers were not perfectly flat. This made it very difficult to screw the deck plate covers on and off and I think this is what caused them to leak.

Good luck with your mod!

http://www.boatersworld.com/product/166610451msk.htm
 

Codfish

Contributing Member
Premium Member
City
Payette
Hello All,

Just noticed that this topic is hot again this year. My mod has not remained water tight. It leaks to this day. I simply pull the inspection plates after any trip where the transom is awash most of the day. I sponge out the water, let it air dry and put the plates back on. The warpage of the factory plates and the lip of the void area make it difficult to get it leak free. I have resisted filling the channel between the grey factory plate and the wall of the transom well, as some have. I may do that or just make some new, tighter fitting plates in the future. For now the infrequent removal of water is not all that troublesome.

Randy, If you include this mod in your video, how about also talking with the factory about fixing this once and for all. A tighter fitting plate, that is judiciously sealed with Rule should do it once and for all. They just need to make the template for the plates a little larger so they fit tight. I hate it when sand and scales get into the channel around the edge of the plates and you have to let it all dry then vacumm the stuff out. We shouldn't have to fill that void with Rule to solve a simple problem.

I LOVE MY SUZUKI. ON THE FOURTH SEASON WITH ZERO TROUBLE. GREAT GAS MILEAGE TOO!

Codfish
 

NCangler

Administrator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
City
Raleigh
State
NC
I contacted Dick at Merritt Marine concerning the two questions posted earlier in this thread.
Those boxes are for structure. It's needed to give the boat enough strength to handle high horsepower.

There is some movement in that area so Rule is the best solution. Welding will work however with the expense of welding it would be uneconomical to do so, you would also have to replace the gray plates with a custom plate made from the same material as the boat in order to complete a weld.
I will contact the factory to see if we can come up with a better solution for taking care of this. Stay tuned. :)
 
J

JollySickTime

Guest
I learn something new everytime I log on...... Thanks.... I also like your two extra rod holders. Nice touch
 

Codfish

Contributing Member
Premium Member
City
Payette
Jolly Stick,

I put those in specifically for salmon and tuna trolling. I can run two rods, one short one long, in the prop wash. Works pretty good.

Codfish
 
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