New member with boat problems

Brandy Bar

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State
Oregon
Bought a 2004 Triumph 210 CC in July. We summer in Reedsport, Oregon on the Umpqua River. First time I moored it, neighbor called me at 6:00 am to say our boat was sinking. Well it didn’t sink, but it was full of water. All plugs were in place. Took it to a Dealer in North Bend, OR…..they determined that scuppers in transom were defective and replaced them with ball scuppers. Plus added to new scuppers in wall in front of transom. Also replaced three of four thru-hull plug assemblies in fish holds. I moored boat yesterday afternoon and within 4 hours the rear port side fish hold was full of water. By removing the faceplate on access port that is on forward end of hold you could see water between the floor and hull and it was draining into the fish hold. The other forward port side and rear starboard side fish holds had a small amount of water. The bilge had water that could be pumped out with about a minutes run time.

Has anyone had similar experiences and/or suggestions on how to fix this problem? Any help will be appreciated. Boat dealers in this part of country don’t have a lot of experience with Triumph boats.

Brandy Bar
 

210ChaosOwner

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State
NJ
Obviously you have to find out where the waters coming in, are your through hull fittings in good shape?
 

Dave_L1

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Pictures would help of both the stern and the area where you see the water going into the the bilge. Next time on the water, have all the rear deck screws removed, this so you can lift it up and take a good look into all of those areas.

In the mean time, I would check all the through hull fittings and hose clamps (would be half tempted to just replace all those hoses after all this time anyway) and make sure they all have double hose clamps installed. She won't sink due to the hull material, but can take on a lot of water and get very heavy for sure...

Now if it has never had inner hull drains installed, all that water trapped in the inner hull is going to add a ton of weight, and only make matters worse for sure.

I highly recommend (cannot state this enough) starting off with using the search tool found in the Upper Right Corner of any page, to make simple keyword searches for subjects like inner hull drains that have been covered many, many times over the years.

Best,
Dave
 

Dave_L1

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Lastly and I would think worse case by now... The ongoing use of the wrong trailer and trailer bunk spacing (these cannot be supported like your typical fiberglass hull) have created stress cracks in the hull. Would like to see a picture of these trailers with these Boats off of them for sure....

All the needed trailer specs can be found here for most of the Triumphs models:

https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/resources/

And even then, I would even consider those drawings "base line" needs, and adding even more bunks and bow supports to help spread out the weight even more, NOT a bad idea ;)
 

JerryD

Registered Member
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State
WA
Thanks for the ideas. I will pull it out of the water and check the through hulls and hose clamps.
 

Brandy Bar

Registered Member
Premium Member
State
Oregon
You guys are a great resource…thanks so much. Putting boat in water tomorrow to look for leaks. Removed deck over bilge area and discovered two drain plugs..one one each side of bilge about 8” off bottom….how should these
be treated? In the fish holds, just an inch or so above the thru-hull plugs are holes drilled all the way through the side wall into bilge area…are these factory holes or ones added by previous owner? There are no plugs…just a hole through about 6” of wall.
looking at the bunking on boat trailer….not per referenced specifications….but it is a Triumph Trailer. How do we post photos on this forum?

A boat dealer added new thru-hull plugs in three of four fish tanks that appeared to be leaking initially..will check status tomorrow.

will report back.

Brandy Bar
 

Dave_L1

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  1. I could not tell you about those bilge drains or fish box drains, maybe others who have a 210 can?
  2. Pull a search for Inner hull drains, plenty of content on them already posted...
  3. I would also pull the pull the splashwell covers and remove that mess that you will find in there and install covers so they can get vacuumed out from time to time to ditch that weight from the stern. Best posting on that fix is here: https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/threads/my-transom-well-modification.665/
  4. Inserting a picture into any thread is easy just click on the icon (see example below)
image insert.jpg

And much simpler to do all of this in Firefox on a PC, not on some tiny limiting phone screen everyone seems to be addicted to using any more :oops:

Best,
Dave
 

Brandy Bar

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State
Oregon
What is the purpose of splash well anyway? Would it be a good idea just to fill them with foam?
 

Dave_L1

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It was a structural need for the transom and yes you can fill it, but it will still get nasty water past the covers as they flex and turn it into a swamp and hold moisture... Much better to just have a way to get it out from time to time using a small 30 dollar shop vac, and allow it to dry further if needed.
 

Brandy Bar

Registered Member
Premium Member
State
Oregon
Dave,
I put boat in the water this afternoon…..even with new ball scuppers installed in transom, water was getting in and filling the splash wells. I am suspecting that eventually water could overflow into bilge when moored…..with bilge pump turned off, could be one source of water filling boat. Of bigger concern is tat water is accumulating behind the access doors in both port side fish hold and then overflowing in into fish holds….more in the aft one than the forward one. Would that indicate your worst case scenario of a crack in hull? If there is a crack, how difficult is it to repair? I checked the bunks on my trailer ….all are 2” x 6”.….the two most out board are 10 feet long and the two inboard are 11 feet long. Then below the transom…at the keel are two that are 32” long. I noticed that the longer bumpers have some sag to them in the middle.
 

Dave_L1

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Unless the inner well has an issue, the spash-well should be as far as it migrates forward. The extra weight does not help though...

Does this one have inner hull drains installed? If you walk around the floor of the Mega Hold, do you hear water squishing under your feet? If so, that is quite some (more) extra weight pushing down adding to the problem.

The leak into the fish box is of some concern though, but would need to see how it is getting into them. Some pictures would come in very handy!

Would like to see the trailer picture empty for sure, and then some with the boat on it from several angles. You will see how a great trailer for that hull should be configured on this link:

https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/media/albums/uncategorized.497/page-4

And even more excellent ideas for that hull on Vic's last 210 including the fix box drains here:

https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/media/albums/uncategorized.497/

Even more ideas to review and compare on this thread:

https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/threads/best-of-the-best-210-215-upgrade-ideas.9102/

Best,
Dave
 

Dave_L1

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Follow on for this and my opinion for any Skiff / Boat...

I am simply not a fan of holes in the hull near or below the water line (fix box drains included) and if left up to me, would fill them all in. I did it on those maddening scuppers on the 190 transom that no matter what I tried, would allow water to get onto the deck.

Once filled in, made it into a new boat in both draft and handling due to the less weight on the stern and my feet stayed much drier and everything that got on the deck drained into the bilge for the pump to handle which unless I was in the pouring rain, was not much...

full


Unfortunately, you are on the other coast and even then (pending how much you love and looking to invest into this 210?) would consider having it shipped, or take it yourself to Merritt Marine in Hillsborough, NC. ( https://www.merrittmarine.com ) and have it gone through from stem to stern by those who know how fix / upgrade one correctly the 1st time! Might be the best 3 to 5 grand you ever spent on a boat that if meets your needs and will last many years. And when you reach out to them, let them know we here sent you, and what you are finding and how you would like to have it addressed.



Hope this helps!
Dave
 

Brandy Bar

Registered Member
Premium Member
State
Oregon
Here are some pictures of trailer and access holes that have water behind them…both on port side. Water in fish holds is coming out of access ports shown. They were dry, as far as I could reach in before launch but after about a half an hour I could feel water in them and it began dripping into fish holds.
I have not installed inner hull drains. Where would I find them if they are installed? Watched video this morning…well done and very informative. Where can one get the plastic powder and plastic welding rod?
thanks,
 

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Dave_L1

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  1. It has a factory trailer and shocked it still is in one piece after all these years and saltwater use... Impressive, though I see somewhere along it's life span, bigger side guide on were added. The Bunks "appear" a little short though or at least short for my comfort level, which you can see by how much of the hull is not supported past the front axle. If mine, I would plan on getting those bunks replaced / extended at some point in the near future and those axles are in pretty rough shape... Not long before one fails I promise you it will happen at highway speed for they never seem to break in the driveway :rolleyes:
  2. It has a inner hull drain, it is the real rusted one near the keel under the engine. I would keep it open anytime she is out of the water. Personally, I would remove that one, and replace with a newer one and make sure it is sealed up correctly and no, you do not need sealant groping out all over the place for it to be sealed up. Those look like something that landed in a diaper and is gushing out of the sides... :oops:
  3. I see some other screws both on, and the near the transducer that look like they need to be resealed with the correct type of sealant. It's called Sudbury RULE Elastomeric Marine Sealant and nothing else works on those hulls... Again, gobs of that stuff is simply not needed and not very professional in appearance and function.
  4. Those scuppers housings get egg shaped and not only make noise from the balls popping in and out (which may or may not matter where you fish) but simply don't seal worth crap... If mine, I would remove them and have them totally filled in, but maybe one of the other guys and gals here have some ideas that own one of those models.
  5. Powder and Welding Rods Merritt Marine can send to you for I doubt that anyone on the West Coast have such at this point and time. Again, maybe one of the Triumph Owners on the "Left Coast" can advise on that one.
  6. My Brother in Arms here on the Site, Randy, produced this DVD that might come in very handy for you: https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/pages/dvd/
  7. Lastly, those fish boxes don't look Factory Stock to me (I might be wrong) but I simply do not remember seeing those large round access points on them? I will have to defer to someone that actually has a 210 or maybe even a 195 that has the same type of deck setup ;)
Best,
Dave
 

Genelie

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Your bunks look ok, your trailer is in way better shape than mine, I pla e on doing some sand blast and repaint with galvanized paint. As Dave said, you have a rusty old inner drain, which by the way I still need to do. And dave said it needs replaced. And as Dave said dont remember any access holes on fish boxes like that. I have none.
As for the scuppers and splash wells, you can look up my photos on the removal and resealing. Splash wells usually will have a little water in them, since drain holes are up about 1/2 inch from the plate. Water will always try and get onto the deck the rubber flappers are useless. Meaning rear fish box and under rear deck plate will get water intrusion. Gaskets and rubber seals are also useless. As for the drains inside fish boxes, not all will drain correctly, due to the molding process, the drains can shift and become out of whack for draining. Just plan on a manual pump to get water out after fishing and bath. This is same for all boxes including the large forward hold.
 

Brandy Bar

Registered Member
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State
Oregon
Dave,
I do have the video DVD….Randy did a great job on this.
Genelie,
here is picture of our retriever, Abby….she is a flat coated retriever.
 

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Genelie

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Beautiful dog. Uggg my dog came down with epilepsy, but he's ok, with meds for life now. The vet said it was genetic.
 

RLLADD

Registered Member
Premium Member
State
Oklahoma
Lastly and I would think worse case by now... The ongoing use of the wrong trailer and trailer bunk spacing (these cannot be supported like your typical fiberglass hull) have created stress cracks in the hull. Would like to see a picture of these trailers with these Boats off of them for sure....

All the needed trailer specs can be found here for most of the Triumphs models:

https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/resources/

And even then, I would even consider those drawings "base line" needs, and adding even more bunks and bow supports to help spread out the weight even more, NOT a bad idea ;)
Dave, would you or anyone know where to look for proper trailers? I am one of those with a Triumph that came with wrong trailer. Thanks
 

Dave_L1

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PM sent by me on that topic ;)
 
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