Smart Tab Install/Questions

Maxg94

Participating Member
Premium Member
City
Middle River
I think I have read all the Smart Tab posts and I have not even had the boat out yet except the test ride. Due to the excellent results with this product on the 150cc, I'm leaning toward purchasing these. I have a 150CC with a 60 HP 4 stroke Yamaha. I have a couple of questions for those of you who have installed these. I do not want to trim my bunks if possible (if I do this, it seems that it would be very close to the bunk supports on the end of the trailer). Do you have to cut the bunks flush with the transom or can you keep an inch or so sticking out. If I get the retractor kit can I install w/o trimming the bunks? I am also worried about trolling speed with this motor being too fast. Has anyone looked into if the tabs help slow down their trolling speed? When using the retractor, I can either put these all the way down and use as brakes or use to retract, but not both. Since it seems you have to reverse the mount depending on what you want, I would like to decide this before drilling. Thanks for any input.
 
Max,
If your boat trolls too fast just hang a 1-3 gallon bucket on a short rope off the stern.It will slow the boat down quite a bit. that will solve one of your issues. Good luck.
John D.
 
bunks

I had to move the winch stanchion back a couple of inches to have the boat sit at the edge of the bunks. You don't have to cut the bunks. As long as it isn't a large distance you shouldn't have any trailer balance issues.
 
Thanks for the input. I really only have 6 inches of space in my garage when the boat is in there with the swing hitch, so I don't know if I want to move it back any. It looks like the bunks overhang maybe 4 or 5 inches. I was thinking if I put on the retractor kit that this would let me just put them up and have no worries.
 
I have recently installed Smart Tabs with the retractor kit installed for trolling purposes. I haven't yet had a chance to really see if it slows the boat down much for trolling. I purchased mine from the Nauticus factory and had a discusion with the owner about the bunks extending under the tabs. He said its not an issue to have them push up when you put it on the trailer. The only concern I have is the screw heads that fasten the tabs to the hinges eventually tearing the carpet on the bunks. For that reason I intend to push the boat back slightly.
Roger
 
I have recently installed Smart Tabs with the retractor kit installed for trolling purposes. I haven't yet had a chance to really see if it slows the boat down much for trolling. I purchased mine from the Nauticus factory and had a discusion with the owner about the bunks extending under the tabs. He said its not an issue to have them push up when you put it on the trailer. The only concern I have is the screw heads that fasten the tabs to the hinges eventually tearing the carpet on the bunks. For that reason I intend to push the boat back slightly.
Roger

I have the Smart Tabs on my 170cc and I have the same problem with the screw heads rubbing the carpet. I was thinking about changing the bunks over with the vinyl covers when I replace the bunk boards. My carpet is about shot on the back anyway. I only have about an inch or two extending past the boat so, the bunks only contact enough to touch the screw heads. I have heard the vinyl covers make a big difference on lauching and recovering the boat with ease. I want to change out the zinc u-bolts with SS ones and possibly change some of the brackets but, I need to find out what the cost would be to change them out. Does anyone know what the average cost is for changing the bunks out and the hardware? I am planning to either do this during the winter months of this year or early spring of next year.
 
I installed Smart Tabs on my 150CC and as I reported previously, they work great. They do hang over the bunk boards with a slight bend, so what I do is push the boat back when it sits on the trailer on land to take the pressure off. I'm in the process of installing a bow mount trolling motor so don't have any experience with the boat with it installed. My problem with installing the trolling motor is that I purchased the boat with a bow rail, which I now have to cut and modify to install the trolling motor.
Question for others? Do you have a large quantity of water pumped out of the bilge on a consistent basis? When my boat is in the water, the pump runs quite frequently. I don't know where the water comes in. Any ideas?

Also, has anyone used JetDock or Air-Dock for docking their boat?

Bill Zeising
 
Bow Rail

Hi Bill, the bow rail modification, in my opinion, turned out pretty well for me. I had my dealer do it before I picked it up and they had pop in stainless plugs that look factory. I did find that only the Minn Koda Terrova style of trolling motor was mountable and usable with the new rail configuration. I'm sure other makers have a similar style. As far as the bilge pump running, that only happens when the plugs either aren't in or, important difference, not tight enough. Check the O-rings on the plugs to make sure they are sound and use some pliers to try and tighten the plugs a little more after hand tight. I have one drain plug that needs the pliers for the last 1/4 turn and that would let water in if not tight. good luck.

Here are links to a couple of pics of the bow rail/trolling motor set up.
Message - Triumph Boat Owners - Photo Gallery

Message - Triumph Boat Owners - Photo Gallery
 
Also, "O" rings for boats need to be kept lubricated, just like "O" rings used in swimming pool equipment. We use a tube of #651 Magic Lube. Lube things up at least monthly.
 
I installed Smart Tabs on my 150CC and as I reported previously, they work great. They do hang over the bunk boards with a slight bend, so what I do is push the boat back when it sits on the trailer on land to take the pressure off. I'm in the process of installing a bow mount trolling motor so don't have any experience with the boat with it installed. My problem with installing the trolling motor is that I purchased the boat with a bow rail, which I now have to cut and modify to install the trolling motor.
Question for others? Do you have a large quantity of water pumped out of the bilge on a consistent basis? When my boat is in the water, the pump runs quite frequently. I don't know where the water comes in. Any ideas?

Also, has anyone used JetDock or Air-Dock for docking their boat?

Bill Zeising

I had the same problem with water getting into the bilge area and it turned out to be the area around the drain plugs needed to be sealed better. I used the Rule elastomeric sealant to seal behind and around the drain plug mounts. I haven't had anymore problems with the bilge running or water getting into the bilge area except from large swells and heavy rain which is normal. The drain plugs also have to be tightened slightly more than hand tight as stated in one of the other posts.
 
I installed Smart Tabs on my 150CC and as I reported previously, they work great. They do hang over the bunk boards with a slight bend, so what I do is push the boat back when it sits on the trailer on land to take the pressure off.
Bill Zeising

How hard is it to push back the boat? I saw a hooking up to a tree comment but I have visions of pulling off the back of my mini-van. I got my tabs and am going to install and need to push the boat back for the install. Also installing the tranducer and have seen comments about the bait well pick up. Is that the hole on the tansom on the starboard side or is it acually on the bottom of the hull where I cannot see it? I really only want to put holes in the boat one time. Thanks to everyone for the help.
 
When I installed my Smart Tabs I pulled my 195cc back on the trailer with a lift truck, but a tree would work just fine. Very little resistance between the hull and the bunks. Leave the safety chain on the bow eye so you don't go too far.
Roger
 
Maxg,
The hole for the livewell pickup is underneath the boat.If you open the little screw hatch in the motor well area you should be able to see the pump for the livewell. It will be directly above the pickup valve/tube/hole. Good luck.
John D.
 
Thanks for the responses I think I've got the best info available before starting this project. Now need to find big tree close to my house.
 
Installed the transducer last night and when drilling holes in the transom a little water seeped out. I guess this is water in the inner hull? I read about inner hull drains but looked in the bilge area and could not find them. Do these exist on the 150 CC or is it something I should install? Also as a note to anyone installing wires, the black conduit that runs from under the consol to the bilge area was great. You had to look under the floor a little when looking for it under the consol (talk about a tight fit getting in there). There were no wires or anything else running in this tube(empty) just the pull string it was very easy to feed the wires. If there are any inner hull drains please advise. They are probably there but with everything stuffed into the bilge area it just may be hard to find or reach. Tonight more holes for trim tabs. It says place 3 to 5 inches from the side, any thoughts I don't like options (why can't they give me an exact number). Thanks
 
Hi
There are some pictures of the inner drain plug location but it really didn't help me either . http://www.performanceoutdoors.net/photos/showphoto.php?photo=2263. The plug is located on the starboard side of the center rib just hidden from view by the gas tank. I reached through the access hatch in the engine well and felt around till I found it. It was one of those plastic plugs with a retainer so it wouldn't fall out when removed - easy to access once you find it the first time.
I just install Smart Tabs SX (the plastic ones) and given the range didn't measure the distance from the side instead found a comfortable position on the keel that just seemed right given the sensors and contours of the hull. I must be close because I have the same problem as everyone, trailering with them deployed so what I did to get around this was move the winch back 2" on the trailer. The SX tabs mount a little higher than the others so the transom is still supported on the trailer. Finally got my boat in the water thanks to a quick rescue of some needed parts from Chad Merritt and the smart tabs work great after a couple of runs to get them adjusted. That being said I have one of my tabs maxed out (to compensate for less than optimal mounting position?) so if I was to do it again I would go with the recommended setting as close to side as I could get.
David
150DC
 
David thanks for the help. I read about the black tube also and if people did not convince me here it was there I would have never found that either. There is so much stuff crammed in that well area I'm not sure how you would be able to replace or work on anything in that area.
 
I found the plug, thanks again for the pictures David. I have leaned one thing from this site, if you guys say it's there it is there, don't believe that you boat doesn't have this. I would have swore both the plug and the tube did not exist after looking for them myself. I had to unscrew the whole cover from the bridge area to find the plug and open it. The little hatch was too small to let me fit my hand past all the stuff to get to the drain. I opened it up and no water of course, but now I know where it is. I installed the smart tabs 1/2 way but was missing the 2 handles on the pro troller mounts. Called the manufacturer and they are sending them out overnight to me, great response. Also, while going to their site saw the $10 rebate form I did not know about, so a little hassle will get me $10. Not bad. When will I finally get this thing in the water and put away the credit card?
 
Thanks for the reply. I'll get some sealant and see if I can cut down on the bilge pump usage.
 
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