Splash well removal

A

Aqualab

Guest
I removed the splash well. Yuck, what a scummy mess underneath it. I was able to locate the inner hull drain plug. I unscrewed it and almost fell over from the odor. No water came out. But I believe it drained any water that may have been in it when I unscrewed the speedometer's pitot tube from the hull. I had water dripping out of the two screw holes for days. The screw holes weren't in the bilge so they must have day lighted in the inner hull. I changed out the speedometer gauge with an RPM gauge so didn't need the pitot anymore.

With the splash well off I can now easily replace the fuel sender, bilge pump and associated hoses and wiring. I'm going to replace the fuel lines, replace brittle/corroded wires and electrical connectors, install a fuel/water separator and install a new through hull fitting with sea cock and baitwell pump for the baitwell since the original owner never had that equipment installed. I have asked this a couple of times on here in the past and have a photo from another member's photo album but..................... I really need to know the exact area with dimensions on where the through hull fitting for the baitwell intake is installed on the 17' boat before I drill that hole. Does it go in the low area exact opposite side of the center beam from where the bilge pump is installed? They are the two lowest spots (identical port and starboard) in the bilge. The photo I do have does not show any identifiable boat/bilge structure for me to make an accurate measurement off of so I can make sure I am installing this in the correct spot. I would really appreciate any additional info or photos you may have on your 17' baitwell pump installation. i took some photos with the splash well removed. Thanks in advance.
003.jpg 002.jpg 004.jpg
 

Dave_L1

Administrator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Premium Member
City
Pine Island
State
Florida
Yuck is right, but they all get that way Brother...

Now I do not know about the location you need on that hull
, but I do have a recommendation on how to help keep that clean and that is to pitch in a few bars of Lava Soap from time to time to slide around there and help scrub it for you ;)
 
A

Aqualab

Guest
Good idea on the bar soap, I will try that this year. Thanks.
 

BarryB

Contributing Member
City
Pembroke Pines
I believe the depression is where the seacock would mount. My bilge pump is parallel to the bait well pump. But remember, the area around the seacock was built up. I'll try to get better photos, however, it's not easy with all the stuff in the way.
 
A

Aqualab

Guest
Thanks BarryB. When you say parallel do you mean on each side of the center beam? The way mine is laid out - in the port side depression the bilge pump sits, the starboard side depression is empty but the baitwell's drain hose is routed over it and connected to a bulkhead fitting on the transom. With the rigid drain hose and close proximity to the bulkhead fitting/transom it would make it difficult to mount a seacock and pump there but I guess it could be done. The photo on the right shows the depression and the hose. It makes sense that would be where the pickup would be for the baitwell pump though.
 

NCangler

Administrator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
City
Raleigh
State
NC
From the factory:
The thu-hull for the aerator pump needs to go through the area of the boat that is "kissed off", the point where the hull and deck are joined the material should be solid, with no void. This would be viewed as the lowest point in the bilge. The hole is typically drilled about 8" to 10" forward of the transom. When drilled, the sidewalls of the hole should be solid with no voids. If there is a void it should, ideally, be welded. At a minimum in needs to be filled with Elastomeric sealant.

Note: Any time a the hull is penetrated; screws for a speedometer pitot or a transducer, etc. they must be bedded with the elastomeric sealant. Especially anything below the waterline.
 
A

Aqualab

Guest
Thanks NCangler for checking with the factory. I think that the location they describe is the same place that BarryB was also identifying. I marked the location, if I am understanding them both correctly, with a red dot on the attached photo. I will try and get a hold of Carl or Chad at Merritt tomorrow and see if they can verify it for me. I only want to drill one hole and pray that it is the right location - piece of cake after that.

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pamarine

Contributing Member
City
Portsmouth
State
VA
Those pads look to be molded to fit a RuleMate Automatic Bilge Pump. I would be willing to bet that if they are depressed into the inner hull, then the hull is solid there for a thru-hull mount.
 
A

Aqualab

Guest
The depression on the port side has two small SS screws screwed into it. I figured they were to mount/hold the bilge pump in place. The previous owner must have removed the bilge pump from the screws at some point because of the difficulty in accessing it and cleaning the intake screen maybe. So now the bilge pump just lays/sits over in the port side bilge area pretty much where its discharge hose dictates. I'm not even sure if this bilge pump is the original one. Mounting it down is on my list of things to correct while the splashwell is removed. I will be cutting in a larger splashwell access hatch also which will hopefully make getting to the bilge pump, fuel sender and new baitwell pump w/seacock much easier.
 
A

Aqualab

Guest
Well I talked with Carl at Merritt Marine earlier and he confirmed the kiss-off point and even went and measured the exact location for me off of a 2011 17' he had in the showroom. Triumph has not changed the 17' hull design. He's certainly a class act. So to be exact, the through hull hole location is 25" in from the stbd side and 5 7/8" in from the stern. Planning on drilling it tomorrow.
 

BarryB

Contributing Member
City
Pembroke Pines
Here are four more photos, hopefully they can help.
One shows the gray pipe that goes through the transom for the motor splash well and bait box. Another shows the transom from the rear. The other two are of the pump and seacock. If you need better photos, I'll have to remove a cover with many screws and nuts. I'll do it if you REALLY need it.

Gray pipe well exit.jpg Exit for splash well and bait well.jpg
Bait pump.jpg Bait pump and seacock.jpg
 
A

Aqualab

Guest
Hey BarryB, thanks very much for the additional photos. What year is your boat? From what I can make out, it appears that our boat's splash wells, drains and hose/piping configurations are set up entirely different. Your bait well drain discharge is further over to the stbd side where as mine exits the stern right above the stbd bilge drain. I'm going to have to remove my bait well through hull drain fitting and install one that is a 90 degree so I can direct the semi-rigid drain hose away from where the bait well pump, seacock and through hull fitting will go. My two splash well drains (port and stbd) drain directly through the transom horizontally. Looks like your trailer is different make and your boards are a little different than mine. My boards are about 9" in from the back of the boat so the through hull fitting will not be impacting the board/carpet.
 

BarryB

Contributing Member
City
Pembroke Pines
2008.

Problem with 90 degree fixtures is something getting jammed in the turn. Ah, perhaps I'll remove that panel this weekend just for the heck of it. If I do, I'll get more photos.

B
 
A

Aqualab

Guest
Yeah..... I was thinking about that too but I don't really have a choice because of where they placed/installed it on my boat. I had to destroy the fitting anyway to get it off. It is/was plastic not SS like yours. Groco makes a 90 degree non plastic one. The through hull portion is SS with SS locking nut and the hose barb part is bronze. Somewhat pricey. I bought that access hatch from Merritt to install on my splash well to replace the crappy 5" round access port I presently have. It will definitely make it easier to reach everything below the splash well. Carl at Merritt suggested removing the machine screws and nuts and just use sheet screws so that it will be easier to take off.
 

pamarine

Contributing Member
City
Portsmouth
State
VA
Barry, is that a factory installation?
 

BarryB

Contributing Member
City
Pembroke Pines
Good Morning Aqua and Frank,

Yep, it's factory. If I can make the time, I'll remove the cover plate just to check out everything and get some photos for the site.

The barb for the bait well exhaust is actually plastic. Only the outside cover is SS. A slight of hand trick I think.
 

pamarine

Contributing Member
City
Portsmouth
State
VA
Huh, don't like that they didn't use a proper seacock. Oh well.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
 
A

Aqualab

Guest
What do you mean by proper seacock? The type with the triangular mounting plate and holes for screws?

The brass through hull fitting for the baitwell pump that I got from Merritt also has two scew holes for mounting it in addition to the locknut itself. I like that since it will help with preventing any side twisting/turning of the fitting when/if I have to unscrew the seacock or pump. Like BarryB has stated, I will need to beef up around the through hull's locking nut also with roplene - I bought one of those rod welders (the cheap one) that Carl demonstrated on the DVD.
 
A

Aqualab

Guest
Got a lot done today even with the black labs helping. Drilled the hole and installed the through hull fitting, seacock and baitwell pump. Snaked the pump discharge hose up below the driver console/baitwell and drilled and installed the spray/fill fitting. Installed the new bilge pump with auto on/off. Cut out the splashwell's top and installed the larger access panel/hatch and also replaced the rubber boot that the cables and fuel line passes through. Installed a new fuel/water separator and replaced the fuel lines and primer bulb with ethanol resistant products. Replaced the faulty fuel sender. I had to order a new bulkhead fitting for the baitwell drain line discharge, destroyed the original during removal. It's a screwy size - 1" NPS x 1 1/8" hose barb.

I was surprised by the volume of water contained in the inner hull cavity. I removed an existing screw that is one of two used to hold down the bilge pump screen and there was a geyser - the screw daylights in the inner hull and it poured out for some time. The water actually shot up an inch or more into the air! I reinstalled the two screws and used Rule once it had stopped draining. So all in all a productive day. Tomorrow I will replace most of the old brittle wiring and connectors from the stern up to the console. If I had the baitwell drain fitting I would probably have the splashwell reinstalled by tomorrow evening.
 
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