Battery Jump Pack vs 2nd Battery Debate

Pilotman

Participating Member
City
Nanaimo
State
British Columbia
Hi Everyone,

I want to know what everyone thinks about running a battery jump pack vs a 2nd battery. This is not ideal for everyone but could be the ticket for a simple setup like mine. My main concern to a 2nd battery is the added weight, the extra wiring required, the relocation of both batteries to the center console due to stern weight and of course the extra $$$.

My setup:

2008 Triumph 170CC
2008 Suzuki DF70A (Can be pull started with rope/handle)
I use of main engine for trolling (no kicker)
Two downriggers, chart plotter/fish finder and am/fm stereo while engine is running
When jigging, motor off with the exception of the stereo and chart plotter/fish finder.
5 miles offshore at the most!
No overnights

Obviously the main concern is that I will drain the starting battery with the stereo and chart plotter while the engine is off...big problem.

Ultimately this is my plan and need some concrete advise. My starting battery needs to be replaced. So I was going to purchase a hybrid starting/deep cycle and purchase a jump pack 1000 CCA. Here is the link, https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...ter-and-power-bank-1000-amp-0111907p.html#srp.

Go! ;)
 
I get it... Royal pain to move wires, add switches, worried about (some) venting battery gases eating on wires, weight, etc. etc.

But you better have a quality battery with a lot of reserve CCA power! I have beat these to death:

https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/threads/spring-is-approaching-are-your-batteries-ready.1157/

And even then, I had 4 of them (PC1200 size) onboard the old 190 with two for House / Ship Service work on a A-B switch ;) So I would make real sure...
  • That single battery is always placed back on a proper charger after each trip. Engine Alternators don't recharge them fully and usually just stays up with what is getting pulled off the battery while operating.
  • Kill the tunes anytime the engine is off besides, unless you are setting in some real deep water, all you are doing is driving the fish away. Sound travels a long way underwater...
  • Along those same lines (noise) as well as controlling unneeded battery draw. I would also install a 3 way Bilge Pump switch (Up=Auto, Center=Off, Down=Manual / Constant) so you can kill it from drawing any current from "looking" for water while either on the driveway OR setting over a fishing spot. I would also make sure you have a bilge pump running light either built into that switch, or a separate red dash light installed. This so it draws your attention anytime it is cycling or (more important) running on a constant basis! :confused:
  • Make sure you can hand start that engine from "inside" the boat and I don't think you are going to be able to rip on a 70hp engine in 80 plus degree heat with a storm bearing down on you for very long... Trust me, when the sky is as black as the ace of spades and you are in 6 footers is when it will all fail! Most Modern engines all require X amount of electrical engery to operate the ECU to even run (usually around 10.5 VDC min) so hand starting one on a totally dead battery "might not" even be an option? Unhook one of the battery leads and see if you can hand start it...?
Now ask yourself if that second battery might not be a very "wise" option after all? :cool:

Hope this helps?
Dave
 
On some sites there are some that would lose their minds and insist a second battery is absolutely required or you'll surely sink. But not here...

I think a single battery with your setup is just fine. The pull start as a backup is nice.

But, I also think a second battery is ideal. A small jumper box hidden away for absolute emergencies is what I would recommend. Even with pull start as a backup. A pull starter cannot be used to power a radio when summoning help.

I have this on my boat:

Jumper
 
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And we leave ours running while drift fishing. Minimal fuel use, it's pretty quiet, and I never have to worry about it starting up. But that's what we do...
 
Quick replies, I like it! The type of battery I had in mind if i chose the jump pack route is going to be group 31, 1000+ CCA with 180min reserve. I called Suzuki today and they informed me that my DF70A alternator output at WOT is 27A, 22A at 1000 and 10A at idle. After each trip i plan to put the charger on it while it's being cleaned, fish is being prepared and the wife is kept happy. I really like the bilge pump light idea, very easy to install so i think im going to do that. I will try to hand start from the boat since it's a good idea to familiarize yourself with that procedure. On a side note, i think the procedure is reserved for ignition problems but i could be wrong. As for 80 degrees, man i wish it got that hot here. The west coast of Canada is so temperate, it bothers me. Winter is 10c summer is 23ish. Rains 8 months of the year lol.

Offshoreman, good point about leaving the motor on. This Suzuki I have is near silent at idle so might just leave it on... Gives me a reason to push her lil hard on the way back. Also Radio is handheld.
 
For me, with dual group 31's, backup jumper, redundant everything, I never shut it off once underway. It doesn't add a significant amount of hours on the engine, doesn't burn even a measurable amount of fuel. It's a safe practice.

The only use my jumper has ever had is jumping others that were out drifting for Halibut with us, with all their equipment running for hours, and their engine was off, and couldn't get her started.

Glad you're one of those safety-minded boaters.
 
Safety first cause sometimes you don't get a second chance. As for hours on the engine, I don't worry about just like the odometer on a car. Just drive it, take care of it and have fun! When it comes to outboards, i find ppl are focused on the year instead of hours. Not sure why. Id rather have a 2008 with 200hrs over 2015 with 800.
 
Safety third! Ha, it's a funny saying in my house :)

It's a machine. Take care of it and it will take care of you.
 
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