2003 Mercury 115 Starting Issues

Rubber Biscuit

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Nutley
I have an 03 Mercury that I bought used on a 190 Bay. This engine can be very difficult to start from cold. Once in a while, I get lucky and she starts right up. It is also especially difficult to restart after it has been started, but not yet warmed up and then shut off. So, for example, I'll launch the boat, tie it up, lower the engine, pump the bulb, and turn the key......nothing but cranking....starting fluid sometimes gives it a jolt to get going. If I run it for let's say a minute or two then shut it, I'll have a difficult time restarting it. Very strange, indeed. Does anybody else have any quirky stories or solutions to this problem? Another issue I have, is that if I idle down too quickly after full out, she'll stall. Starts right back up once good and hot......go figure.
 
To try to address the issue, here goes. I also have a 2003 Mercury...mine's a 60HP 2 stroke. I found by trial and error, mostly error, that when the engine is cold, I need to:
1) make sure the bulb is firm
2) advance the throttle a little (but not in gear) about halfway between full and neutral.
3) give the key 10 to 15 quick pushes to squirt a little gas into the carbs.

Once the engine kicks over, advance the throttle until is runs smoothly. As the engine heats up, the RPMs will increase and I back off on the throttle until it idles in neutral.

I hope this helps you out.

Tight lines and let me know if you have any questions.
 
yamaha

Rubber biscuit,
This sounds crazy but I found out that with my Yamaha 90 two stroke-it wont start cold while trimmed or tilted. If you look back at this site i asked others for choke help. I found out by accident and repetition when trimming straight down in the yard or at the ramp I get easy cold crank. Found it by accident messing around in the yard.
I talked to another 90 Yamaha owner and he confirmed my findings with his experience.
Strange but true.
I have also found with my last two 2 stroke outboard to use premium oil.I used to fish rivers and had idling problems and it created dangerous situations in current. When I switched to Quicksilver and Yamalube my idling issues went away.
Let us know what you find out.
Lindsay
 
Would like to hear if he found out what was the problem....... The BIG thing to do is take the Oil Pump off of the motor and just manually mix. Check your plugs and remember that if you pump the bulb to much you could be flooding it out. I had a Johnson that was a pain in my :confused:.... Took the VRO pump off, hand mixed, and pumped the bubble just enough to start feeling pressure. If you can hear the fuel going into the engine, squeesh, squeesh, you have gone to far. The engine not running after you have started to warm it up??????? My last Mercury was a 200 HP Optimax and I never had a problem with it. Great Motor...... Only problem I have had with the Yammi is after putting it in gear if I give it to quick of throttle she will hesitate or shut off...... Have to Baby it at first. :rolleyes:
 
I really feel like I have some type of obstruction in the fuel line, as when I pump the bulb, I can pump and pump and nothing happens....very quirky. Then...the engine m,ight start and the bulb gets hard, go figure???

This is a 4 stroker, so are you saying to literally forget about internal lube?
 
To try to address the issue, here goes. I also have a 2003 Mercury...mine's a 60HP 2 stroke. I found by trial and error, mostly error, that when the engine is cold, I need to:
1) make sure the bulb is firm
2) advance the throttle a little (but not in gear) about halfway between full and neutral.
3) give the key 10 to 15 quick pushes to squirt a little gas into the carbs.

Once the engine kicks over, advance the throttle until is runs smoothly. As the engine heats up, the RPMs will increase and I back off on the throttle until it idles in neutral.

I hope this helps you out.

Tight lines and let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks....gonna give this one a try!!
 
I really feel like I have some type of obstruction in the fuel line, as when I pump the bulb, I can pump and pump and nothing happens....very quirky. Then...the engine m,ight start and the bulb gets hard, go figure???

This is a 4 stroker, so are you saying to literally forget about internal lube?


:eek: NOOOOooooooooo...... Was reading like a 2 stroke :confused:..... Sorry about that one!!!!! Have you checked your inline fuel filter? Sounds to me like a you have a hole in the gas line somewhere? Dealer Time I guess.. The days of back yard shadetree outboard mechanics are over and done. Good luck ;)
 
I really feel like I have some type of obstruction in the fuel line, as when I pump the bulb, I can pump and pump and nothing happens....very quirky. Then...the engine m,ight start and the bulb gets hard, go figure???

You might have a bad bulb. Those little parts inside the bulb that allow gas to go only one way sometimes break loose and can work the opposite way thus starving your engine of fuel. If you're pumping and not feeling any gas going though the bulb, I would replace it. Just my thoughts.
 
Bulb Replaced

Thanks....but yeah, I already did replace the bulb, and so now I am thinking that I really don't think there is a restriction, because once I get her running and warmed up, she runs great, smooth aceleration etc.....go figure....
I am wondering if there is a choke that actually is supposed to work on this engine? I would think not since it is E.F.I.? Am I right to assume that. When I push the key, I really don't hear anything going on back there at the engine that would signify a choke clicking in.....
 
I am wondering if there is a choke that actually is supposed to work on this engine? I would think not since it is E.F.I.? Am I right to assume that. When I push the key, I really don't hear anything going on back there at the engine that would signify a choke clicking in.....

I was under the assumption that I had a choke on my 60 HP 2-stroke but found out later that it in fact did not. When I push in on the key it actually squirts a little gas into the carbs...I usually have to push the key in about 10 - 15 times before trying to crank it. A way to check it is to remove the cowling and right next to where the fuel line connects to the engine there should be a little "primer bulb" that you can use if you need to manually start the engine (without the battery). If you have that "bulb", then you don't have a choke. Try hitting the key several times before you try to crank it to see if that helps. Just holding in on the key (like with a choke) does not work.

Hang in there...we'll figure this thing out yet.

Tight lines.
 
OK....thanks for that. I am going to check it out once this snowy weather calms down up here. (NJ)
Supposed to go to 18 degrees tonight! Brrrrrr
 
Haha...after all that, I found the problem. It's EFI, so I do not even need to pump the dang bulb. Just turn the key and she starts right up without fail, even after sitting all winter. Amazing.
 
Wow........after 3 1/2 years........
 
WELL!! I've been waiting ...with bated breath!! :D
 
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