Autopilot

[MZBHAVN]

Considering an autopilot for trolling or running offshore a bit. Often go solo (prefer it as my time away from the world) an have seen a few forums on the Raymarine s1000.

What do you guys use and what are your thoughts on the them. Looking for a no thrills budget friendly model for my 215 with 150. Would prefer the best money can buy for the value, not one that is cheap and low quality that results in frustration of operation or low dependibility.

 

[pamarine]

The S1000 will do you just fine. Easy to install, no need for a rudder reference sensor, no display to mount (just creadle for the wireless controller)

 

[MZBHAVN]

pamarine,

Maybe you can answer me this question in regards to gps tie in or I will need to dig out the manuals or call hummingbird. I have a 2yr old hummingbird chartplotter with built in gps and it is either a 597ci or 587ci. NEMA out is tied in to vhf, will i need a "y" connector or can I simply tie (soldered) in to the connection of the gps/vhf.....not sure the misses will allow the budget to grow for new chartplotter at this time.

Thanks,
Scott

 

[pamarine]

You will need a NMEA0183 Expander to split the single data output into multiple outputs.

NoLand Engineering XP15 NMEA 0183 Expander

Whatever you do, NO SOLDERING!! Crimp or scotch-lok connectors only (or terminal blocks).

Also, pm sent.

 

[MZBHAVN]

PA,

Alright, now tell me why no soldering as it goes against what good old dad taught me about the best electrical joint....maybe I just didn't fully listen to him.

 

[pamarine]

Soldering is fine on a static joint. However, boats are anything but. Thus, the joint is constantly subjected to movement from vibration, which will cold-work (aka work-hardening), which increases brittleness, until the joint fails. Take a piece of copper wire and bend it back and forth enough and eventually it breaks, same thing here, just much smaller dimensions. (this is also the reason boats use stranded wire instead of solid)

In fact, with the exception of certain electronic terminal ends (ie multi-pin connectors) and battery lugs, industry standards specify not to use solder as the sole means of joining or terminating conductors.

 

[Push&Pull]

You will need a NMEA0183 Expander to split the single data output into multiple outputs.

NoLand Engineering XP15 NMEA 0183 Expander

Whatever you do, NO SOLDERING!! Crimp or scotch-lok connectors only (or terminal blocks).

Also, pm sent.

I do not agree. While what you are saying may be true. In a salt enviorment, corrosion would be more of a concern than brittleness and vibration. I have always soldered and never had an issue. Corrosion on the other hand......well, it goes without saying. But then again, to each their own. Alot of people solder incorrectly anyway and have problems, so maybe it's a wash.

 

[MZBHAVN]

Push & Pull,

How do you like your s1000, did you use an expander as I think i read you have a hummingbird plotter gps?

Scott

 

[pamarine]

I do not agree. While what you are saying may be true. In a salt enviorment, corrosion would be more of a concern than brittleness and vibration. I have always soldered and never had an issue. Corrosion on the other hand......well, it goes without saying. But then again, to each their own. Alot of people solder incorrectly anyway and have problems, so maybe it's a wash.

Corrosion is fairly easy to mitigate by simply choosing the proper terminals, environmental encoslures, and insulators, as well as using marine-rated components.

The reason soldering is specifically mentioned in the standard is two-fold, vibration and cold-joints. Both of these are addressed by using proper crimp terminations.

Sent from my Ginger Nookcolor via Tapatalk

 

[Push&Pull]

Push & Pull,

How do you like your s1000, did you use an expander as I think i read you have a hummingbird plotter gps?

Scott

I wouldn't own a 12 footer without an autopilot. It's great. I'm sure I'm going to wear it out. No, I didn't use an expander. I do not use a VHF on my boat. Don't see the need for it. The interface is very quick and simple. And it tracks the GPS perfectly.

 

[MZBHAVN]

I felt the same about the VHF...but since I installed it and when I am out by myself I kinda of enjoy listening to the stupidity on the radio....like really calling the coast guard for a whale sighting...or the guy that was a mile offshore and let the coast guard know his gps quit working and need assistance to find the inlet on a sunny day and said he could see the beach. I mean really where do you think you are going to see them...hanging out at the bar or on the beach, well I guess we do see them there to.

I get a good chuckle from it, otherwise I hope to never key the mic.

 

[MZBHAVN]

Installed the Raymarine S1000 and LOVE IT!! Very easy install, basically plug and play, out of box setup works great for my boat. Humminbird suports up to 5 nema feeds so it works both VHF and Autopilot no problem. I have tested it in rough seas and slightly calm water (been blowing hard this year) and works awesome.

Will not own another boat with out it.

 

[rscott]

What's the slowest you can track straight with your s1000? I troll a lot in the Great Lakes at 1.5 to 3 MPH GPS speed and have heard they have trouble at those low speeds. I would love to install one if they work well in this situation.

 

[pamarine]

What's the slowest you can track straight with your s1000? I troll a lot in the Great Lakes at 1.5 to 3 MPH GPS speed and have heard they have trouble at those low speeds. I would love to install one if they work well in this situation.

from this thread: http://www.performanceoutdoors.net/forums/threads/6040-S1000-Auopilot-questions

I doubt it will even engage tbh. Typically the vessel needs to be going at least 3 knots (abt 3.5mph) for the pilot to operate.

From what I've seen with the new x systems, this is still true.

 

[MZBHAVN]

My S1000 had info in the box that said it would troll down to 1 but they couldn't guarantee accuracy below 3.5. I have had it at 2 mph gps and it went in a straight line while i worked the cockpit and pulled in 2 fish. I generally troll faster so I haven't been real slow. I will try and put that on a to-do list.

They ship out everything you need in the box for an installation with the exception of one thing...a ground wire..Very easy install and setup.

 

[BeeReel]

Anyone that installed a S1000 in a 215CC got any last minute installation hints? Where did you mount the pump and computer (pics?). I've got mine in the box ready to install soon.

 

[Push&Pull]

Can't get along without mine. Be sure to bleed the lines throughly. I'll see if I can get some pics of my install. I placed the pump on the steering side in the lower console and the brains right behind my Hummingbird 1100 Chartplotter (easier interface). No matter where you put it, the cramped, hinged console design is terrible and very tight working quarters. I was on my head with my feet sticking up in the air at some points.

 

[MZBHAVN]

I dont have any pics at this time but could get some in a few weeks... I put the computer on the fwd and center portion of the lower console (if sitting on cooler it would be at your back but inside console of course) The pump is in the upper portion and fwd of the cup holders (behind vinyl blank off cover).... give some thought to disconnect switch placement as to place into an area that is accessible but won't be bumped while under way....for various reason I have used the disconnect several times and bumped it a few as well.

I removed the tip open limiters on the console and let it fold open to its max point with seat installed and that made install much easier.


Follow the bleed instructions, 2 people make it easier and plan on using all oil that came with it....I thought I did good not losing much fluid but still had to add a bunch....don't forget to pick up a ground wire as it doesnt come with one.

 

[BeeReel]

OK so I still have the electrical connections to do but this is what I have so far. 1) tapping in of the autopilot hydraulic lines was fairly straightforward, however there was absolutely no play in the original lines to install as shown in the instructions and the original lines were attached on the bottom of the T's. The new pump lines were installed in the straight out position. Bleeding the lines was easy enough while keeping the autopilot pump low in the CC down near the batteries. 2) The pump came with these 2 rubber wraps (shown in the picture #5) which was suppose to hold the mounting screws but there was too much tension due to the torque of the lines when 1 screw was installed to rip right through. After that I over engineered the mounting of the pump, 1st using 3 x 1 1/2" plastic pipe clamps and rubber washers and 6 plenty long ss16 bolts to mount the pump to a piece of starboard. The starboard was then mounted with 4 more ss16 blots to the sidewall of the center consol unit. Was able to get the pump low and far enough back so as to not block removal of the rear battery. 3) the computer is mounted on the port inside of the dry well storage under the CC. This seemed to be the best place (in my case) to keep the unit within tolerance of vertical and tilt specs PLUS still permitting me to lift up and remove the inside CC deck. I have a Promarine battery charger unit also installed here so not many options for mounting and still be able to remove the decking.

More to follow later.

3 of the pics seem to be 90d off

 

[BeeReel]

Got all the wiring done today. The motor turns in response to commands via the wireless. My Garmin 545 is not sync'ing for some reason. Does the boat have to be moving? I now have 2 NMEA's out: 1st to the DSC VHF radio which works and the 2nd to the autopilot. I did the Gamin software activation of the 2nd NMEA output and still nothing. I checked and redid the connections (think they were originally x'd), no effect. Any suggestions?