Trailer leaf springs

[Aqualab]

Anybody replace their trailer's leaf springs? Mine are original - going on 11 years old or so. I was in the middle of replacing the wheel hubs and got a good look at the springs - rusted and pitted and look like crap! The owner before me used the boat in salt so the square bolts and springs are all in need of replacement. Just wondering best way to accomplish removing the springs - I don't have a torch to cut the bolts off so I'll be spraying/soaking the nuts with KRoil and using elbow grease I guess. Can they be replaced with boat still on the trailer with it jacked up and on supports? Not sure if I want to tackle this right now even though I have the wheel hubs off.

 

[BarryB]

Die grinder with a carbide cutting disk will work.

 

[Aqualab]

BarryB, have you had to change yours yet? How about a sawzall!

 

[Push&Pull]

Sawzall will do the job fine. You might want to consider changing to a torsion axle. Very simple, longer lasting and no more leafs to contend with.

 

[Aqualab]

I read where some trailer manufacturers were switching to a torsion axle - I'll see what one goes for.

Thanks

 

[Dave LeGear]

Sawzall will do the job fine. You might want to consider changing to a torsion axle. Very simple, longer lasting and no more leafs to contend with.

Somewhat better, but those have issues also. Take a read over this one and see how bad they can get

http://www.performanceoutdoors.net/forums/threads/6711-Trailer-Axle-swap

 

[BarryB]

Nope, but may in the future. Mine have rust, but I have not seen a reduction in metal yet.

 

[mrgreencms]

Also go down to Harbor Freight and pick up an electric impact wrench for about $50.00. Not only will this tool help with the removal of nuts it saves some of the elbow grease you will need for other jobs. I recently picked up one myself and it is great for changing tires on trailers, trucks and whatever else you might need to accomplish.
Dave

 

[Aqualab]

Changed out both hubs, tires and rims yesterday. The hubs were in bad shape, seals were bad. I don't think the previous owner maintained them. I threw grease into them when I got it but water was in them and the grease shot out the back. Thankfully no scoring on the spindles. Supposedly, Loadrite trailer hubs are not standard in regards to width from outer to inner bearing/race front to back - anybody else ever hear of that? Load of BS? I ended up buying Made in the USA brand hubs, paid more but feel better. The original tires were bias type, had some cracking/dry rot in the side and tread loss so decided to replace them with radials - American made brand also! Even though they were the same tire size, etc., it seems like the radials are a bit taller? Installed bearing buddies while I was at it. Going to wait on replacing the springs until this winter or next spring - will be a PITA I'm sure and I don't have enough jack stands to support the whole trailer/boat while removing the axle at this time.
Today I am going to change out the bad 11' bunk on the port side which I believe is causing the boat not to load/sit correctly on the trailer. It is bowed and bounces like a rubber band which has caused the hull to deflect into it. So when placing the boat back on the trailer the bulged hull sets back down into that weak bunk, off center. This in turn causes the boat to tilt down slightly to the port and positions the hull almost right up against the wheel fender. No matter how many times I try to reposition the boat when loading it at the ramp it always ends up in the same position. The outer port side bunk then straddles the hull's molded-in step or line (don't know what the correct term is) which contributes to the problem. Hopefully changing out the weak bunk will correct this. At a loss if it doesn't since the trailer supports are aligned per the layout.

 

[Aqualab]

Took the boat to the ramp and tied her off while I worked on the trailer yesterday. It was a crummy day so not much traffic at the launch. Replaced the bowed bunk (was like it was made of rubber) as well as most of the U-bolts on the other bunks also. Loaded the boat and it now sits centered on the trailer at least when comparing the gap between the hull and the wheel's fenders. The boat is tilting down to the right slightly but I attribute that to the outward deflected hull sitting on the new bunk, will take some time for the hull to reshape back to normal position? I'm hoping the boat's tilt to the right is causing the hull's port side channel/chine to straddle the port side's outer bunk from about 5-feet forward of the stern back to the stern. The starboard side outer bunk is at least an inch further out from the hull's starboard side channel/chine. Since the bunks/hardware are evenly spaced/positioned on the trailer's cross members and contoured per the Triumph layout drawing I have no idea what could be causing this misalignment.

 

[BarryB]

Photos would help lots.