Trailer Tires STINK

boostjunkie1

Contributing Member
City
Lexington
:confused: I have a 190 Bay and had a Trailer Tire blow out on me last friday. I had the max Cold PSI (50) in them and they were wearing only on the outside edges. These are the GoodYear Marathons that come standard on the EZ-Loader Trailer from Triumph. These tires could not have but around 4,000 miles and 1.5 years worth of wear :mad:..... They are Load Range C tires and are not enough for the weight of my 190 Bay. At full pressure with the 2 New Tires I just put on they will not wear in the center at all :confused:...... Can I put another axle under this trailer??????? Are there any load range D/E Tires that I can buy since I only have 1 axle??? Please help.... These tires are new and will not last like this....Oh, and the wiring from the factory is JUNK. Lights are all going south and the connections are failing. All of the bunk bolts are rusting and the boat only sees salt water 4 to 5 times a year and gets cleaned after every day of use....? Boost
 
Re: Trailer light Wiring, see this thread.

What size tire is it and I'll tell ya if you can get the right load rating for the trailer. What's sad is my old boat still has the original (1996) tires and the are cracking and dried-out but still intact enough to pull the boat 6 hours. (I have a spare but it ain't any better).
 
i would put a car tire on them that would fix it. that is what i replace my trailer tire with. i would rather have steel belts than nylon. and it will help with the sway of the trailer also.
 
The goodyear tires on my trailer under my 210cc are 6 yrs old and have thousands of miles of cross country towing on them. They are in fine shape. The spare I have however has no road time on it and the sidewalls are cracking like crazy. I hope I dont ever need to use.
 
I would take the boat back to my dealer and have them check out the tires, the wiring and the rust for sure.
 
Tires need to get used to stay in shape. I had a set of goodyear marathons on my trailer when i bought the boat last year and by mid summer they both blew out. the trailer was a 2005 and was never trailered. I called around and the goodyear marathon are considered to be GOOD tires so I stuck with them and so far since I replaced both last year I have put 6 to 7,000 miles on them with out a problem. (yes i trailer my boat alot. This spring I drove it from Chicago to Key west.)

As for the load range you should be fine. If you do a lot of driving at high speeds (70 or above) then a higher load range tire will help with the heat generated by the high speeds. The problem is the tires on a trailer should be matched to the weight of the boat because the tires also act as shocks. To rough of a ride from higher load range tires and you may find the trailer will not trailer as well which could be dangerous.

You have had the boat for a year and 1/2 but you dont know how long it sat on a lot. A year out side on a lot with no movement can ruin a tire.

Just my Random Opinions

HTR
 
I bought the boat with 20 Hours on it as a DEMO boat and it was only in service for a couple months. The tires had no wear because the landing was 2 miles from the Dealers lot. The tire wear is due to the load of the boat on weak rated tires. The load carrying capacity of the 14" Tires is junk. At full pressure I should be running on the centers of the tread but I am running on the outside edges like they are underflated/overloaded.........
 
Had a Goodyear Marathon trailer tire blow out on me my second year. When I got to a marina asking if they had trailer tires in stock, the guy asked me "What happened?"

When I said I had a blowout, he looked at me and asked "Was it made in New Zealand?"

Yup. He said a lot of folks are having troubles with the Goodyear trailer tires blowing out. He submitted a claim to Goodyear for me, and they mailed a 14$ rebate for the tire.

I'll never buy Goodyear Marathons again personally.
 
i would put a car tire on them that would fix it. that is what i replace my trailer tire with. i would rather have steel belts than nylon. and it will help with the sway of the trailer also.


There are several manufacturers of Steel-belted trailer Tires.

The differences (and benefits) of Trailer tires vs Automotive Tires are discussed below:

Special Trailer Tires Vs Passenger Tires

There are distinct differences in the way passenger tires and trailer tires are
designed, engineered, and constructed. There are also differences in the service
requirements between the tires on your car or truck and those on your trailer.
Traction, or grip, is a key element in the design of passenger tires. Traction
moves your car or truck down the road. Traction allows you to stop, turn and
swerve, and traction also gives you the ability to tow your trailer. Another
important consideration in passenger tire design is “ride”. Ride, traction, and
handling are all achieved in passenger tire designs by adding flex in the sidewall.
By making the sidewall more flexible, tire engineers maximize tread contact with
the road, thus increasing traction and allowing the driver to maintain better
control over the vehicle.

Traction is only a factor on trailers equipped with brakes, during braking
operations, because trailers are followers. In fact, sidewall flexing in a trailer
application is a negative. Sidewall flexing on trailers carrying heavy loads;
trailers with high vertical side loads (enclosed/travel trailers); or trailers with light
tongue weights, is a primary cause of trailer sway. Automotive radial tires with
their flexible sidewalls notably accentuate trailer sway problems. The stiffer
sidewalls and higher operating pressures common with Special Trailer (ST) tires
helps control and reduce the occurrence of trailer sway. Bottom line, trailers are
more stable and pull better on tires designed specifically for trailer use.

Also consider that all Light Truck (LT) and Special Trailer (ST) tires are fully rated
for trailer applications. This means the tires can carry their full sidewall weight
rating when used on a trailer. When passenger tires are used on a trailer, the
load capacity of tire must be de-rated by 10%. If the tire has a maximum load
rating of 1900 lb., it may only be used in a trailer application up to 1710 lb. This
means the GAWR rating on the trailer Certification Label must not exceed 3420
lbs. On a single axle trailer, or 2 times 1710 lbs.

For trailer use, it is important to match the tires to the application and payload.
Since Special Trailer (ST) tires are constructed with more and heavier materials,
they are tougher and more bruise resistant than typical passenger tires. This is a
plus because trailer suspension systems are generally stiffer and less
sophisticated than automotive suspension systems. A tire designed to operate in
the more demanding trailer environment will provide end users a longer service
life and withstand the added abuse tires on a trailer experience.

Bias ply Special Trailer tire technology has been moving trailers around America
for nearly 30 years, and more recently, the ST Radial arrived on the scene
providing the same durability and dependability in a radial trailer tire. For many
trailer buyers, tire decisions are purely price based. The allure of an equal price
and the word “radial” for that price draws some customers to the passenger tire.



p.s. Boost, still looking for a higher load rating than "c" in that size.
 
Most of the tires that fit these smaller boats are bias ply tires ST 205-75D-14 or (E)..
but they also have a Radial...ST 205-75R-14.

Regular car tires are not built like a trailer tires and won't have the
extra side strenght for when the boat is in tow and flies around curves..
 
so a regular tire is good on a car (thats 3000 lbs.) to fly around curves but is not good enough to put on a trailer (thats 2500 lbs.) to go around the curves behind a car?

i was just saying what i do and it takes the sway out of my trailers. as soon as i find a set of small ford rwd rims (that looks good on them) the trumph trailer will have them on it too. i think the trailer industy says all of that just to sell there stuff. my opinion.
 
There are several manufacturers of Steel-belted trailer Tires.

The differences (and benefits) of Trailer tires vs Automotive Tires are discussed below:





p.s. Boost, still looking for a higher load rating than "c" in that size.

there are my passanger tires they are just using a basic cheap tire.
 
Guys I have talked with EZ Loader Trailers here in Concord NC and they are going to work with me on my issues. I cannot go into full detail but I can say that I will be upgrading to a 16" Rim and a Load D rated trailer tire. This will give me a little over 1000 pounds of extra weight capacity compared to what I have now. After talking with the Warranty Manager I can tell you all that EZ Loader really wants to stand behind there product. We discussed having a custom tandem axle trailer built for the 190 but I feel that will be overkill for my situation. I will update everyone on the progress. The boat and trailer goes in for the upgrades at the first of the week. :cool:
 
Glad to hear it Boost!

Holmes, that article was given to me by a friend who tests tires for Michelin. (I'm not sure where he got it, it wasn't published by michelin)

Car tires work for many, just like a screwdriver works as a pry bar. But they are not the right tool for the job. They are designed to handle different forces and loads resulting from those forces than a Trailer tire is. I am not an expert in this field by any means, but I always advocate using the right tool for the job.
 
I'm averaging 10mpg towing my boat with trailer tires that have high PSI and don't flex much. I'd hate to see what I'd get with car tires that normally bulge at the bottom. :O
 
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