Vehicle/trailer electrical connection maintenance

[Dipnet]

So what do you guys use to maintain a good electrical connection in the plug for the trailer?

It seems like every-time I want to get my 17 ft. Triumph ready for an outing the trailer lights aren't all working and it's always due to the connector.

Case in point: knowing I was going to hit Puget Sound yesterday, on a quiet day last week, I backed the truck up to the trailer tongue and plugged in the connection. Result: no brake lights and no right turn signal.

So (AGAIN!) I got out electrical contact cleaner spray, a small round file and some sandpaper. Proceeded to clean all the pins and receivers on my 4-pin flat connector system. After a few minutes of cleaning, Hoorah!, we had lights.

So the night prior to the trip I again hooked up the trailer. Even though it's only been less than a week, again I had malfunctioning lights!

Went through the same exercise with file, sandpaper and cleaner and got them working but damn, I get tired of this!

Would some dielectric grease cure this issue? To my understanding dielectric grease is non-conductive so would too much exacerbate the problem?

Granted, this boat is usually used in salt water and I know that doesn't help the issue. But I always rinse everything down well after a trip and spray either WD-40 or contact cleaner in/on both sides of the plug.

If anyone has the secret to getting rid of this aggravation I'd appreciate it!

 

[Push&Pull]

If the plug is in fact the problem, you could go to a different plug with more robust contacts, like a 7 pin round.

Lets you add backup lights and a backing brake solenoid and even 12v acc. power like for elect. tongue jack.

 

[jg1891]

I use the cheapo 4 pin plug. I use dielectric grease often.

My lights are on my guide on poles and never touch the water.
Individual grounds are run to each light instead of the star washer/self tapping screw ground on the tongue.
All connections are done with heat shrink butt connectors and heat shrink tubing over the butt connectors.(overkill)
Even though my lights never touch water, I still unplug before dunking the trailer.

I always keep my connector tucked inside the tongue of the trailer and out of the sun while in storage.

I think the individual grounds to each light eliminate most of the problems

 

[Push&Pull]

As Jg1891 said above, I also mount my lights at the top of my guide poles.

I use a 7 pin connector and run all my wiring (including grounds) individually to each light, (4 ) so there are no connections that will be underwater. Never had any issues with my lights.

 

[Dipnet]

As with Jg1891 my lights are individually grounded and the all connections were made with heat shrink butt connectors liberally coated with liquid electrical tape. I've purchased some dielectric grease and have coated the connector pins and receiver. We'll see how that works!

 

[djnolan]

To me it sounds like the connection is not being made because the connectors have gotten widened out and they no longer fit tightly. On my 5 pin connector I sometimes have to squeeze the connector gently with pliers to flatten the connector a little bit so that it fits more snugly.

 

[Dipnet]

So the wife wanted to go for a boat ride to Blake Island and do a little exploring a couple of days ago.

When I hooked up the trailer and had her stand in the back to check the lights, again no driver side lights!

Expletives were loudly uttered!!!

Took off the lens and saw the corrosion in there. Even though these incandescent lights are advertised to be "sealed" the salt had done its work!

I know "sealed" incandescents work on the "bell jar" effect. Meaning that the trapped air in the upper part of the housing is meant to prevent water intrusion in the lower part. But evidently just atmospheric salt intrusion is enough to corrode electrical contacts.

It took awhile to get the bulb loose from the rusted housing and clean things up but we did get things working so we could go enjoy an afternoon on the water.

So just today installed new LED lights and they seem to be the bomb!

I simply used the old wiring harness (which is only about 2 1/2 years old and seemed pretty good), cleaned up every contact point and gooped 'em with dielectric grease. I then installed the new LEDs.

Man, they are bright and visible!

With the old incandescents, the wife, when checking the lights on a bright day, was never too sure whether she was able to see that they were working or not! I don't think she'll have that problem anymore!

I'm just hoping that because all the circuitry is sealed that the LEDs will last longer than the old incandescents!

I'm sooooo looking forward to just being able to hook up and go!!!