what type of trailer bearings are these?

[bluecrab]

What kind of bearing are these and how tdo I make sure that they have the right amount of grease in them?? also what kind of grease to use?

The trailer is a 2004 ezloader for a 170 cc

Picasa Web Albums - aceindahole - Bearings

I am on myu was to NC in August and want to pick up an extra set of bearings just in case. I tried to look at the trailer maintenance sheet but the linky is dead.

blue

 

[OspreyVic]

Do not know what called, but look just like mine.

Mine have a rubber cap covering the opening to help keep dirt out. You can read what I do every year on the tread where the link does not work.

In addition, I give each zerk fitting about 3 pumps from my grease gun after every trip.

 

[bluecrab]

Wow 3 pumps every time you go out. I haven;t pumped any in at all. I will check your post before I ask more questions.
and yes I do have rubber caps on mine.

thanks

Blue

 

[bluecrab]

is that zerk fitting a standard??

 

[bluecrab]

Vic,

can I get the amsoil at any auto store or walmart type store? MArine stores are a distance form me.
thanks again for the response.

very much appreciated,

blue

 

[JimW]

Blue,
Here is website that may be of help to you about bearing maintenance.
Boat Improvement: Protect Trailer Bearings

JimW

 

[bluecrab]

..............

 

[rscott]

You can call EZ Loader with your serial number and they can give you the bearing number or you can take one out and go to any industrial bearing house, (check your local yellow pages every city has at least one). They WILL have them in stock, they are all very common tapered roller bearings. Get new outter races while your at it.

 

[Steve762us]

Walmart carries sets for 1" and 1 1/16" spindles...about twelve bucks for both inner & outer bearings, cups (races) and the inner seal. Chinese bearings, yadda yadda, someone won't like it, but they're rolling on `em each day, regardless. The bearings I took out on my trailer Chinese, and were fine---I decided to replace them solely because the trailer was a 1996, and I had absolutely no idea how old the bearings were, or what condition they were in.

I found I had to really torque down the spindle nut to "preload" the hub and get the slack out of the bearing assy...back off it once it's set, but don't be shy about the initial torque.

You'll have to beat the bearing buddy off each hub. I used a piece of 2x2 or 2x4, just try to catch the outer edge and get it started "tilting" in the hub, and keep working you way around it...once it starts, you'll get the hang.

Pry the old inner seal out with a big flat tip, and use the flat tip to drive the old races out (hit the flat spot on the "inside" of each race---from the opposite side of the hub--drive each race out the same direction that it's bearings came out. They are a tight fit, you'll have to work your way around the circumference of the races, moving em just a little at a time. Wipe out all the old grease from the hub, and fill it about as full as you can. Drive each race back into the hub, making sure you don't do it *backwards*. You have a (much smaller) lip on the races to drive them, when replacing them...be careful. You can use one of the old races to help "start" each of the new races...otherwise they'll wobble around the mouth of the hub and antagonize you. Pack your new bearings, and seat the inner bearing. Seat the inner seal with a piece of 2x4, driving it evenly with the flat side. Pack more grease round the inner bearing, and pop the hub on the spindle. Seat outer bearing, pack more grease, do the washer, nut, preload, unwind a bit, and do the cotter pin. Pack more grease in there (seeing a pattern here?).

For grease, I used the Walmart brand marine NLGI wheel-bearing rated grease. Everyone has their preferences, I go by the rating (and won't touch any oil & lube that doesn't carry a rating) and haven't been bit yet.

The bearing buddy gets beat back on, with a hammer and block of wood.

Personally, I'd say to put some saran wrap and a rubber band around each hub, and drag it around the block, nice and slow, a couple of times...then jack her back up, and check for slop in the bearings. If there's wobble, take up the slack on the spindle nut, and either re-check or smack the bearing buddy back on...my first replacement set surprised me, and I ended up wrecking the seals the first day I towed it.

 

[bluecrab]

thanks for the info.. I posted this at another forum::

well I got some lucas grease and a grease gun..
AAAAARGGGG!!!

so the grease gun tip "snaps" on the "zerk" nipple I get the grease in there and have to really yank really hard to getit off.It doesn't seem natural.

Also how do you know how much is too much? I think I have too much in the passenger side and I think I busted the drivers side one because it seems to be leaking a little on the outside seal. So much for going crabbing tomorrow.

&%$#@$%$@!
I am so %&!@#$%
this ^%$#@!$ boat has me so frustrated right now!!


sigh

blue

 

[fridaysoff]

blue,
there is not a problem if the outside is leaking a little. You are talking about the side where the zerk fitting is ,right. Just wipe that off and go about your fishing.You just do not want to blow the inside seal out. Don't pump your bearing buddies all the way out. Just pump them until you see the spring move outward a little. leave a little slack in the spring. Good luck. Take it to a trailer shop and have them repack and check your bearings.Don't get frustrated before your vacation.
John D.

 

[JimW]

If you want to purchase on line here is a great place to shop trailer parts and many other boating, fishing, camper items.
Trailer Parts Superstore - Recreational & Commercial Trailer Parts Dealer Since 1981

JimW
PS: Hope you get to go crabbing soon, good luck. Is that trot lining, traps, or pots?

 

[tneut]

Hey Blue,
The grease gun tip should be adjustable - two part threaded- turn one way to make tighter , the opposite for looser. Hope this helps with the gun.
tneut

 

[Steve762us]

Find the bearing protector website for whoever made your protectors...notice I said "protectors", not "Bearing Buddies". There are several brands out there, and they are different, in how they tell you WHEN TO STOP pumping in grease.

Bearing protectors are good ju-ju, but you can easily blow out your rear seal with them, by over pumping grease into them. And no, I won't tell you to "buy the manual", bwah hahahah!

EDIT: Ooops...almost forgot! Your grease gun tip (the part that mates to the zerk fitting) should have two parts; the tip section should "unscrew" from the base section. As you apply it to a fitting, if it oozes grease out the sides of the tip, you can "tighten" the tip to the base section, and it will grip the zerk tighter and seal the tip to the fitting. If you find you can't pull the tip off when you are done, just "unscrew" the tip section from the base section (or, just hold the tip on the fitting and rotate the rest of the gun counterclockwise) and it will release it's grip from the fitting.

 

[bluecrab]

thanks guys. also about the grease gun adjustment maybe I think i had it too tight. Grrrr.

Ive been crabbing every weekend since the beginning of may except for one weekend. This is my breaking cherry year
And thats pots myself but I do trot line with a friend of mine's gear. I am not rigged yet for the line maybe next year i have put enough into crabbing I figure currently my crabs are about say $80 a piece so far hehehehe but who's countin'

But traps for now.

I really enjoy being out on the boat regardless of what we are doing. It's been very therapeutic. Nothing like an oxygen rush to the body with a beautiful view. Shoot its rained and I have still have had fun!!

blue

 

[Steve762us]

Kewl, Bluecrab...try staying out till the lights go down...that's a whole `nother world of beautiful views!

 

[OspreyVic]

Bluecrab, do a web search for Amsoil. We have an Amsoil distributor I call every spring for a years supply of grease. Their web site will list local suppliers. In fact, using your ZIP code, they have 2 dealers with 10 miles of you.

My trailer manufacturer is the one that set me straight on proper maintenance. Replace the grease every year - pump in new grease till all the old stuff is out and new grease is coming out. When on the road, grease gets hot and expands, then you cool it when you launch, which leaves room for water. Adding a little new grease after each trip helps fill in those voids. At least that was their reasoning. The trailer manufacturer suggested we use nothing but Amsoil Synthetic Water Resistant Grease. They said that they have had the best success with it.

Good luck, and hope this helps.

 

[bluecrab]

Oh yeah I love the night time. I just need to get more confident.

Well I wound up going with the lucas Grease " Red N Tacky"
ok ok so when you pump new in it is okay for the old stuff to come out?

My question then how far should the "plunger" be expressed out? or how deep should it be ?
Am I making any sense.

Also when I put the zerk grease gun on there its a bear to get off? What technique am I not using to get the grease gun off?

Thanks a lot guys..

Blue

P.S. We wound up going out anyway and caught about a bushel and a half and then cruised up the bay and were done by noon. Crabs for the weekend! and a great tan. VERY therapeutic !!!!

 

[Steve762us]

Oh yeah I love the night time. I just need to get more confident.

Well I wound up going with the lucas Grease " Red N Tacky"
ok ok so when you pump new in it is okay for the old stuff to come out?

The standard recommendation is "don't mix greases"...keep using the same stuff, or get it all out and repack with new type.

From my experience, btw, if you just "pump out" any quantity of existing grease, you'll have blown out your inner hub seal.

My question then how far should the "plunger" be expressed out? or how deep should it be ?
Am I making any sense.

That's what I meant in previous post,about looking up your brand of "bearing protector"...different brands have different ways of indicating when they are full. Some have a plastic rim that becomes "rockable", others push out the zerk fitting till a colored ring is visible.

Also when I put the zerk grease gun on there its a bear to get off? What technique am I not using to get the grease gun off?

Same like I said above...grasp the tip section (part that's gripping the zerk) and "unscrew" it---a half turn or less is usually enough---from the back half of the tip (the part that grease gun hose threads into). That will expand the gripping jaws inside the grease gun tip, and it will let go of the zerk.

The board wants at least ten characters to make this post work...here ya go!

 

[OspreyVic]

Steve762us.

First, I am NOT disagreeing with your experience.

I am stating that my trailer manufacturer strongly suggested that I pump out all the old grease every year. He said to pump in new grease until the new grease was all that was coming out.

I would agree on not mixing different types of grease.

While I am not an engineer, it just might be that by replacing all my old grease every year, and pumping in three or four squirts after every trip, that I am also keeping the grease young and pliable.

Even oil, if allowed to sit with exposure to the air, will get hard over time. If you add heat and salt water and heat again, to me that would just speed up the process.

My father, as he got older, told me that he did not change the oil in his car any more. Well, eventually he gave me his old car. When I took it in for an oil change, the oil was so cooked and gooey it just did not want to come out, even when the engine was hot. It took three oil changes of high detergent oil, one every 1,000 miles, to get that engine back to anything approaching normal. Then I sold that thing as fast as I could because I could just imagine what the inside of that motor was like.

Another possibility, and one that I am not disputing, is that my trailer was made in 2005. So I have only done this full pump out replacement three times. Maybe the fourth or the sixth or the tenth time I will have a problem with a seal. Guess I will just have to take my chances.