Another Trolling Motor Setup

[Vqt411]

Figured I post yet another trolling motor installation. I pretty much went with member MZBHAVN Minn Kota post verbatim but added a few additional steps that I ran into that might assist others. I have always used Motor Guide so my setup will be as such.

I went with the Motor Guide 80lbs trust with the 60” shaft with the GPS/SpotLock option for my 2008 215 CC.

I moved the top nav light to the underside while drilling 3/8 hole for access. I spliced the connection and closed the top with a plug instead of filling it with Rule. Glad I did since I accidentally pull the wire from the anchor storage and got the wire disconnected. Rather had the plug white but couldn’t justify buying 25+ pieces online in order to get white. Got one grey piece at Ace Hardware. I positioned my quick release bracket a bit further back so only 3 of the original holes were resting on the pulpit. I opted to drill another hole in the center.







I had some flexible all purpose wire that I used to push through the conduit where the existing nav light run. Once I got this to the other end that comes out/up through the console. I then taped both 6Gauge lines with electrical tape at the bow end and started to pull from the console end. I ran into some snags along the way before it got stuck. To remedy the issue I used some electrical grease throughout the lines. The next pull slid through like a snake in water. It probably wouldn’t hurt that the grease will help if I ever needed to run more line. I opted to leave the wire in place reachable from both ends in case I need to pull additional lines in the future.









Drilled 1” hole in the rope locker and installed the power receptical for the trolling motor. I then spliced the trolling motor power plug to the trolling motor power lines.



The power cable was able to fit into the locker cover slit along with my anchor chains.

The boat already has a dual battery setup so I added two more 27 series deep cycle batteries. I bought all four batteries new from Sam’s. 2 dual purpose 24 cycle for cranking/house and 2 deep cycle 27 series setup for 24v trolling motor. I used a recommended 60Amp breaker for the trolling motor batteries connection. All four batteries sat on mounting plates and pretty much took all the bottom space of the console floor.



I installed a NOCO 4banks battery charger/maintainer for the batteries. I opted to bolt down the charger on top of the cover inside the console and run the lines through the hand slit.







Added a plug socket on the starboard side of the console to plug in an extension cord for charging.





I DIY a trolling motor stabilizer since the RAM products are ridiculously expensive. Got a few ideas from other folks online. I Bought a piece of 1 ½ inch PVC pipe and cut it down to size. Cover both ends with caps. I got some plastic clamps on Amazon to lock down the shaft of the trolling motor. I screwed it down to one end of the cap. I velcro the bottom end to a buffer sponge to absorb shock and preventing it from sliding around on the deck.



I took it out for a day of fishing/hooping and couldn’t be happier not ever having to anchor!



I was only able to upload 10 pics so I only posted what was pertinent.

Vince

 

[Dave LeGear]

Great guide and sure will be of help to many

 

[215fan]

Figured I post yet another trolling motor installation. I pretty much went with member MZBHAVN Minn Kota post verbatim but added a few additional steps that I ran into that might assist others. I have always used Motor Guide so my setup will be as such.

I went with the Motor Guide 80lbs trust with the 60” shaft with the GPS/SpotLock option for my 2008 215 CC.

I moved the top nav light to the underside while drilling 3/8 hole for access. I spliced the connection and closed the top with a plug instead of filling it with Rule. Glad I did since I accidentally pull the wire from the anchor storage and got the wire disconnected. Rather had the plug white but couldn’t justify buying 25+ pieces online in order to get white. Got one grey piece at Ace Hardware. I positioned my quick release bracket a bit further back so only 3 of the original holes were resting on the pulpit. I opted to drill another hole in the center.

View attachment 21237

View attachment 21238



I had some flexible all purpose wire that I used to push through the conduit where the existing nav light run. Once I got this to the other end that comes out/up through the console. I then taped both 6Gauge lines with electrical tape at the bow end and started to pull from the console end. I ran into some snags along the way before it got stuck. To remedy the issue I used some electrical grease throughout the lines. The next pull slid through like a snake in water. It probably wouldn’t hurt that the grease will help if I ever needed to run more line. I opted to leave the wire in place reachable from both ends in case I need to pull additional lines in the future.





View attachment 21228



Drilled 1” hole in the rope locker and installed the power receptical for the trolling motor. I then spliced the trolling motor power plug to the trolling motor power lines.

View attachment 21230

The power cable was able to fit into the locker cover slit along with my anchor chains.

The boat already has a dual battery setup so I added two more 27 series deep cycle batteries. I bought all four batteries new from Sam’s. 2 dual purpose 24 cycle for cranking/house and 2 deep cycle 27 series setup for 24v trolling motor. I used a recommended 60Amp breaker for the trolling motor batteries connection. All four batteries sat on mounting plates and pretty much took all the bottom space of the console floor.

View attachment 21231

I installed a NOCO 4banks battery charger/maintainer for the batteries. I opted to bolt down the charger on top of the cover inside the console and run the lines through the hand slit.

View attachment 21232

View attachment 21233



Added a plug socket on the starboard side of the console to plug in an extension cord for charging.

View attachment 21234



I DIY a trolling motor stabilizer since the RAM products are ridiculously expensive. Got a few ideas from other folks online. I Bought a piece of 1 ½ inch PVC pipe and cut it down to size. Cover both ends with caps. I got some plastic clamps on Amazon to lock down the shaft of the trolling motor. I screwed it down to one end of the cap. I velcro the bottom end to a buffer sponge to absorb shock and preventing it from sliding around on the deck.

View attachment 21235

I took it out for a day of fishing/hooping and couldn’t be happier not ever having to anchor!

View attachment 21236

I was only able to upload 10 pics so I only posted what was pertinent.

Vince

Thanks for the post! I recently fished with a friend that has a spot lock trolling motor and I couldn't believe how great they hold you over structure. Got to get one on my 215 now!
Is the 80 lb thrust - 60" shaft enough for the 215? I was leaning towards a 36 volt 72" shaft but didn't know if that's overkill for a 215 triumph. Can you please give us an update on how well that setup is doing?

Thanks!

 

[Yump]

Thanks for the post! I recently fished with a friend that has a spot lock trolling motor and I couldn't believe how great they hold you over structure. Got to get one on my 215 now!
Is the 80 lb thrust - 60" shaft enough for the 215? I was leaning towards a 36 volt 72" shaft but didn't know if that's overkill for a 215 triumph. Can you please give us an update on how well that setup is doing?

Thanks!

 

[Yump]

Omg that's what's up hahaha where were you in September when I paid someone to do the install lol couldn't figure it out and neither could they even though I have them the write ups hahaha looks clean as hell on yours though!!

 

[Yump]

Honestly 60" shaft is perfect and I have a 36v system on mine and it's perfect for what I want it for and plenty of juice to use offshore. Opted for 36v soly to use as a kicker as I fish past the limits of tow boat us quite often during summer. Figure better to have it and not need it then to need it and be padling in from 90 miles out. @215fan

 

[215fan]

Thanks for the added feedback. I was planning a 36v as well. Better to have the added thrust in stronger currents and wind than not to have it. The 60" has served you well? I haven't measured my bow height yet. What does the 215 measure to the water line?
Thank again!

 

[Vqt411]

I thought about doing the 36v setup but didn't had enough room in the console to have 5 batteries (3 trolling and 2 house/engine). The 60" shaft seems to work out so far except when the wakes from passing boat would raise the bow up and the trolling motor would come out of the water briefly. The one issue I had with the navigation light being under the pulpit was water kept getting in and burning out the light bulb. I ended up installing these LED strip lights. Make sure you have enough spacing between the pulpit and the trolling motor pole at downward position so that it doesn't press against the LED strip. Mine ended up getting crushed on the green light side. These LED strips are super bright at night.

 

[Yump]

Thanks for the added feedback. I was planning a 36v as well. Better to have the added thrust in stronger currents and wind than not to have it. The 60" has served you well? I haven't measured my bow height yet. What does the 215 measure to the water line?
Thank again!

I haven't really had an issue yet with the 60" shaft. I will say that the added power is a nice addition but all it really equates to is longer battery life lol.. I'm not sure but I know there us easily a foot under water at all times.

 

[215fan]

I haven't really had an issue yet with the 60" shaft. I will say that the added power is a nice addition but all it really equates to is longer battery life lol.. I'm not sure but I know there us easily a foot under water at all times.

I spoke to a sales rep for Rhodan and she said their 24v 80 lb thrust motor will handle boats up to 6000 lbs. That was good to hear, one less battery to deal with. They have a 12 week lead time though so I'll have to put it off for a while.

 

[Yump]

I spoke to a sales rep for Rhodan and she said their 24v 80 lb thrust motor will handle boats up to 6000 lbs. That was good to hear, one less battery to deal with. They have a 12 week lead time though so I'll have to put it off for a while.

Damn that thing looks pretty sweet! The pulling power on that is intense that's for sure! I wonder what the actual battery life is though? Seems like it's got a huge amperage draw. I already had a helix10 g3n mega side image so I went with the i-pilot link. It's wicked awesome to just have my fish finder do the work hahaha. Also the reason I went with the 112 thrust is well. Our boats have factory dry weight of about 2,300 lbs then factor a f150 outboard weights 470 dry. 70 gallons of fuel a 6lb a gallon is another 420 lbs as this does diminish I have never touched a half tank of gas burned. Water intrusion to the hull idk lol your guess is as good as mine??

I seem to have had quite a decent amount before the drains and Mickey Mouse enterprise hack job I did in the mega hold shop vac'd out 46 gallons. Now when I'm going offshore there's normally 3 of us on the boat another 700lbs of mass lol. Plus gear? Never weighed that lol. Full bait tank 32 gallons with the mod listed on the forum for a true fill at 8 lb a gallon is another 250lbs. Full scoop of sardines 18lbs. My calculations were that I was past the 4000 lb mark. Also I have boat us as my recovery service. Unfortunately they only rescue in the 55 mile range. I most often fish 73 miles south of the border in Baja then back to San Diego lol. I opted for the 112lb thrust not based on going faster cause I don't think that's a possibility. Thrust vs rpm and prop selection is a thing lol. I soly opted for the bigger motor as a backup plan, to put me closer to that 55 mile mark worst case scenario lmao hahaha.

This season I will have time off work when the tuna, yellowtail, skipjack, wahoo, and Dorado are only like 36 miles offshore so that's a score!! All in all I'm waiting on the lowrance ghost to be saltwater capable hahaha. That thing looks sweet! Then fashion in a few 36v lithium ion batteries and call it a day hahaha

 

[215fan]

Yeah I considered a lithium set up but damn that's a big jump in $$. Hard to justify that initial investment.

 

[Yump]

Yeah I considered a lithium set up but damn that's a big jump in $$. Hard to justify that initial investment.

Okay so check it out I hope it's not too late but definitely if your going out in super chop that's close together then 72" shaft all the way!!

Also as for lithium batteries check out Amped outdoors. They have some top quality product man. Get you hooked for sure! The prices are absurdly cheap considering what you get in terms of cells used and the bms that they use as well. I just bought one and it's getting shipped out tomorrow. Will keep you guys updated on this thread seeing how it's the most relevant one. Also not trying to type up another thread cause it's all the same just simple differences lol.

 

[215fan]

Okay so check it out I hope it's not too late but definitely if your going out in super chop that's close together then 72" shaft all the way!! Also as for lithium batteries check out Amped outdoors. They have some top quality product man. Get you hooked for sure! The prices are absurdly cheap considering what you get in terms of cells used and the bms that they use aswell. I just bought one and it's getting shipped out tomorrow. Will keep you guys updated on this thread seeing how it's the most relevant one. Also not trying to type up another thread cause it's all the same just simple differences lol.

Received the Rhodan 24V/72" over the weekend. Measured the wire run from the anchor locker to the batteries in the CC and it's 16 ft. Does that sound about right? Might bump up the wire size to 4 Gauge. Spend a bit more now and less headaches later...
I fish the Gulf mostly and when the winds pick up even the 2 - 3 ft seas get nasty being close together and steep, so the 72" shaft should perform better IMO.

 

[215fan]

Received the Rhodan 24V/72" over the weekend. Measured the wire run from the anchor locker to the batteries in the CC and it's 16 ft. Does that sound about right? Might bump up the wire size to 4 Gauge. Spend a bit more now and less headaches later...
I fish the Gulf mostly and when the winds pick up even the 2 - 3 ft seas get nasty being close together and steep, so the 72" shaft should perform better IMO.

@ Yump the lithium batteries on amped outdoors are affordable for sure. What size are you getting

 

[Yump]

Received the Rhodan 24V/72" over the weekend. Measured the wire run from the anchor locker to the batteries in the CC and it's 16 ft. Does that sound about right? Might bump up the wire size to 4 Gauge. Spend a bit more now and less headaches later...
I fish the Gulf mostly and when the winds pick up even the 2 - 3 ft seas get nasty being close together and steep, so the 72" shaft should perform better IMO.

Hahaha good call on being proactive. I'm about to pay the difference in shaft lengths and warranty the TM lmao. Yeah It was the first time it happened to me and it was an all day occurrence. First couple times that thing breached the water it jerked the boat so hard it almost threw me overboard. Not such a fun feeling.

The way it was explained to me and from what I know is that with the 60ah lithium battery I will add 2-3 hours of use to my setup. I've run the 36v with lead acid in horrid conditions yesterday. Fished from 8am till 5pm. Spot locked for a good 5-6 hours on the honey holes fishing 550' deep for big rock fish. Winds were 13mph with gusts of 16mph. While drifting between spots trying to find productive spots then spotlocking again current was roughly 1.2-1.8mph. Only ate one bar of the battery life. I opted for the single 36v 60ah.

They have a wicked ass 24v 80ah battery if you choose to go singe route. That would last you more than a day it seems or you could get the double 12v. I would definitely opt for the single for space savings. You could easily place the battery in your center console with you other batteries. 16' sounds about right. I had a hell of a problem fishing the lines through and ended up paying someone 3 hours labor with no avail. So they only charged me 1 hours labor funny thing is with them going all he-man they lost the nav lights in the process hahaha. They fabricated a nice mount and will install on the t-top. I ended up going back to the drawing boards and with my lady's help we finally got it through. I used 6 Guage wire plus the i-pilot link.

Word of advice is get the nylon fisher tape stuff from harbor freight if you don't have wire that's strong enough to make it through. Triumph left me a horrid parting gift from the factory in my pvc wire guide line thing. A straight up rats nest of wires and an absurd amount of electrical tape.. looks like they lost the first line and never fished it out what worked for me and was way easier was to feed one wire at a time. Don't think you can shove those thicker wires all easy like a snake through water even with the electrical lubricant. Also that stuff is godsent for this job trust and believe!!

Hope that answers and helps out brotha. Battery life should be roughly 10 years. They have a 5 year replacement warranty in place and after the 5 years. They will work on the battery to trouble shoot if you want. Other companies that offer longer warranties are just prorated battery prices that diminish as the years tick by. Also lithium batteries are half the price they were 3 years ago. I remember when you couldn't get a single 12v 48ah lithium ion battery for under $3k. These LiFeP04 batteries are way way way more stable than standard ion. In 5 years the price will be driven down so much its ridiculous lol.

 

[215fan]

Okay, so the TM is in and wire, breaker and plug ordered. When I was in the console running the weed eater line thru the wire channel so I can pull the cable next weekend, I couldn't help but think what a mess my wiring is. So I'm trying to figure out how to better arrange everything in the battery area. I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel so any pics of your battery area of the CC with some description as to what and where you have breakers, switches, busbars and/or anything else in that tight compartment would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Dave LeGear]

Plenty of ideas here:

https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/threads/general-marine-wiring-forum-now-online.9171/

Along with some guides to help you trace it out here:

https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/forums/general-marine-wiring-related.130/

Some further help (Big Picture ideas) in this section that i am sure has quite a few upgrade ideas. And I would allow yourself some time to watch through those videos

https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/forums/boat-and-skiff-restoration-section.198/

Hope this helps?
Dave

 

[215fan]

Thanks Dave, looks like some good reading material!

 

[Yump]

Hahaha thank you putershark for coming in on that one lol. My wiring job that I was left with is atrocious!! That's a week long project all in itself I have planned for next off season lol. Battery showed up today things definitely sweet. Trying to figure out if I like the case or not. For the time being I will use the inset that the battery came with inside the battery box to keep from sliding around. So far I'm stoked! Will write up my initial thoughts in the amped thread I have posted haha.