Triumph 17 DC owner

deandean

Registered Member
State
Florida
Hello,

My name is Dean I live in Boca Raton Florida and have a triumph 170 cc. The boat is powered by a 60 horsepower yamaha and the steering cable just froze over and I am looking to find information on if I have to remove the engine to replace the cable and what length the cable is. I would rather leave it in and snake the new cable in when I pull it out then pull it out to measure.

Thanks

Dean

P.S. I also have a 1978 Jensen Cal 34 that I have left on anchor for two years. Pray I make it through hurricane season :)
 

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Check with Merritt Marine in Hillsborough, NC. ( https://www.merrittmarine.com ) on the cable replacement.

After such, we highly recommend starting with using the search tool found in the Upper Right Corner of any page, to make simple keyword searches for subjects and topics of interest to you. There is almost 19 years worth of information here and quite sure it has been discussed before.

Best,
Dave
 
Check with Merritt Marine in Hillsborough, NC. ( https://www.merrittmarine.com ) on the cable replacement.

After such, we highly recommend starting with using the search tool found in the Upper Right Corner of any page, to make simple keyword searches for subjects and topics of interest to you. There is almost 19 years worth of information here and quite sure it has been discussed before.

Best,
Dave
Thanks for the information. I have been to Merritt Marine I will contact them for information. I have done steering cables on my 1969 17 Whaler multiple times but in that boat it was very simple as the engine did not have to be removed and the cable was exposed instead of running under the boat.
 
Option B - Would be to upgrade the system to have both Tilt and be a Hydraulic steering system at the same time.

If that is your way to leave home each day since you might live aboard some of not much of the time. The Hydraulic steering type by design will last longer than standard cable steering.


If you do stay with the cable, then I would consider adding the extra zerk fitting at the top end housing (see link below) to it to help keep it free and able to pump out some of the salt water that is going to migrate into it over time. This and use a quality synthetic grease at the same time.

https://www.davisnet.com/collections/power-boating/products/lube-ii

Or this product

https://www.davisnet.com/products/cable-buddy?pr_prod_strat=description&pr_rec_id=1db0c8975&pr_rec_pid=6661295341729&pr_ref_pid=6661295505569&pr_seq=uniform

Possible (but I would not hold my breath) that you may be able to disconnect it and start filling the end with Power Blast and let it "eat" on the rust and break it free?

https://blasterproducts.com/product/pb-blaster-penetrant/

Then go back and add one of the above fittings to help keep it that way going forward or buy you some time before you have to replace it...
 
Thanks for the input Dave.

I do not liveaboard the sailboat I live on land a mile away and trailer my boat frequently to her. The cable is not stuck in the tilt tube. It is stuck, because the outer casing of the steering cable broke in a spot and the inner part of the cable rusted out. My triumph is actually very clean, I bought it in the Raleigh area in 2020 and it was a freshwater boat up until then (not so much anymore).
 
Hello,

My name is Dean I live in Boca Raton Florida and have a triumph 170 cc. The boat is powered by a 60 horsepower yamaha and the steering cable just froze over and I am looking to find information on if I have to remove the engine to replace the cable and what length the cable is. I would rather leave it in and snake the new cable in when I pull it out then pull it out to measure.

Thanks

Dean

P.S. I also have a 1978 Jensen Cal 34 that I have left on anchor for two years. Pray I make it through hurricane season :)
i"m sorry for the delay replay but absolutely you will have to remove the motor in order to access the steering cable
 
I also had to remove the engine to install my new steering cable. There just isn't any extra room to direct the cable into the engine steering sleeve. I used a come-a-long and a lift to support the motor. Plus some more elastomeric sealant for the bolts. It would have been a lot easier if the cable didn't go under the floor. But thats that. Also, my Mercury engine (2014) has a grease zirk in the tube.
 
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