Disk Brake Upgrades

[mario]

Any advice on changing from drum to disk. I need to do my annual tailer maintainance on my EZ Loader. I go two years out of my stock drums and will contimplate the upgrade if I can use the same actuator (Attwood) since I'll have everything apart anyway. The Tie Down brand SS disk conversions look to be reasonable and a straight forward install. I was wondering if anyone has tried this upgrade and how compatible is it with my actuator.

 

[Dave LeGear]

If dunking in salt water then disk brakes and oil bath hubs are the way to go IF your boat requires brakes. The stock master cylinder on the 03 210 trailer I had I was not very impressed with and any time you were backing up hill and then were going to the park the boat, it would knuckle over and was impossible to disconnect...

So I found some other information that you may like to review and compare http://www.kodiaktrailer.com/redswish/disc_brakes.htm on such upgrades even though I have never done one myself on a boat trailer

Let us know how your upgrade project goes and take some pictures as you go through the process!

Dave

 

[blakinsmith]

Mario - I'm about to change my brakes too. Did a lot of web reading - several threads on this subject at The Hull Truth. Lot's of guys swearing by the Kodiak brakes Putershark pointed out (but spendy). Several happy with Tie Downs - new ones are vented I guess to help cooling, but also some unhappy Tie Down Customers. Believe our actuators will work if you puncture a diaphram (pressure release valve?) to keep light residual pressure typical with drums out of the way. You need a reverse solenoid too. After checking with the guru (aka Codfish, who put a pair of tie down discs on a prior single axle trailer and was happy with them) he pointed out that you can get a pair of replacement drums for the price of a single disc and not have to worry about actuator changes. I just ordered new drums from Eastern Marine and will be installing soon. I bought the boat/trailer used and they just had the 3rd season with lots of salt and minimal flushing before I got into the picture. Quite a lot of rust, and some adjustment challenges so I figure it is time.....Barry

 

[Dave LeGear]

Barry,
Those flush kits along with the use of "Salt Away" in the lines will help in keeping your new ones clean. I would also consider (thinking outside the box) having the back of the new drums (non moving parts) power coated or treated to help slow down the rust build up.

The flushing though (unless your ramps have water hose connections) usually takes place "after" the trailer has sat out in the sun after a salt water dunking and though helps some, does not prevent the rust from re-occurring I'm sorry to say...

Tight Lines!
Dave

 

[NYHarleyFisher]

Mario,
As stated above, other forums have talked quite a bit about the difference between the Tie-Down and Kodiak brakes and the it seems that Kodiak seems to win hands down. (Stainless Steel) Although initially more costly.
They also talk about taking a portable sprayer filled with soapy water and just spraying down the trailer brakes after launching and loading. Seems to do the trick to help prior to washing down with fresh water later.
The sprayer is one of those portable pump type you would use at home on the lawn and get at places like Home Depot.