Silly Question: How do I flush Engine?

[Swamp_Bear]

It's a Yammy 150, and I don't have "earmuffs." I'm not looking to crank it up, just to flush water through it after a trip into brackish waters of the sound.

Thanks!

 

[jtaylor1]

Check out the Yamaha motor website it explains it pretty well - I have a Yamaha 150 2 stroke - if you have the fitting on the bottom left that hooks on to a water hose, connect it to a water hose and flush for 15-20 minutes with motor off - so says my owners manual.

 

[Swamp_Bear]

Thanks, I'll check it out. I looked for my owner's manual, then after not finding it I went outside and looked for some kind of fitting earlier, and ended up 0 for 2.

Guess I need to dig up that owner's manual after all, especially now that I know it's in there. Into the dreaded den I go..

Thanks!

 

[BigDogBill]

Same process for the 4 stroke. I have the 150 and it has a fitting on the side that allows you to use the garden hose to flush - with the engine off.

Bill

 

[Swamp_Bear]

I found the manual, which led me to the fitting on the motor. It's right under the cowl of the headunit, a hose fitting that unscrews.

Done deal!

 

[Thfireman]

OK, I see that and have done that. Here is my question... Does that flush everything the same as if you hook up the cups on the foot that allow you to crank the engine and run it with the water flowing through? I do know not to run the engine while the hose is connected to the Yamaha flush hose.

 

[ILLOGICAL GGC]

I Have Been Told To Flush With Muffs To Flush The Power Head. Some Just Hook To The Hose Nozzle. I Do Both Before I Put It Away After An Outing And Use Salt Away On The Muff Flush

 

[Thfireman]

Thanks, I think I will do both just to be sure also.

 

[tneut]

Agree with doing both

Had a 115 Yamaha 4 stroke used. The previous owner did the hose flush through their fitting without running it it. When I did my 100 hour I was amazed at how much debris I found. Next 100 hours I did both the fitting and then the muffs and is was much better. Asked the mechanic, and his take on it was the fitting was for boats left in the water , and it was better to use the muffs.

I checked my 150 Yamaha 4 stroke manual and it says to flush the unit with their fitting and then at the end of this section it states "For cooling system flushing instructions see page 50".This shows how to do it with the muffs, though it is in a section for storing the motor. I continue to do both as the first can be done as the gear is being unloaded, then I power flush it when I'm done cleaning it out. If I'm lucky enough to have a water tap near the ramp I just power flush it there to save time.
Trent
08 215 CC -Simply Indestructible

 

[joguzman711]

I've had my Triumph w Yamaha 150 since 2006 and this is what I do: Since the engine has a flush adapter and your water source has enough pressure to cause a stream of water to discharge from the cowling drain (pee hole), then it is fine to run the engine on the flush adapter only, but it's limited to 1500 RPM max and no longer than 15 minutes. This also ensures adequate water for water pump lubrication. If the overheat horn sounds or you cannot get enough pressure for water to flow from the cowling drain hole, you are required to use BOTH the flush adapter and a lower unit flush adapter simultaneously. Additionally, you should never start the engine out of the water until you have allowed adequate time for the engine block and lower unit to fill with water and start draining out. If water is draining out of the lower unit, it is in fact lubricating the water pump. I know what the owner's manual says, I've also discussed with Yamaha Outboard Engineers. My engine runs like a top since 2006 and I've experience NO problems using this method.

 

[BarryB]

The water pump impellor is lubricated by water. If there is no water, the impellor will burn up, simple as that.

 

[joguzman711]

So the hose attachment suffices so long as there is water coming out of the pee hole. Is this what you mean?

 

[jg1891]

Just using the hose adapter(motor not running) to flush is better than doing nothing but is not nearly as effective as running the motor on the muffs to flush it. The hose adapter is for people who keep the boat in the water all the time and are not able to do a proper flush with the motor running(muffs). When you run your motor to flush it you accomplish a lot more. You bring the motor up to operating temperature and your thermostat opens and closes during this cycle. Don't take a strong "p" stream as a surefire sign that everything is ok either. It is usually a good indicator that everything is ok but motors pump water out of the prop exhaust as well. When I used to only use the hose adapter on my 2001 Suzuki water would only come out of the "p" hole and not the prop. So running it on muffs is much more effective.

 

[joguzman711]

I'm sorry. I'm not familiar with Suzuki outboards. The only two outboards I've owned are a Mercury and Yamaha F150TXR.
Please check out this video (link below). It has great info on maintaining a YAMAHA 4 stroke engine. The service tech advises using the hose attachment and running the motor (without muffs mind you) to bring motor to temperature in order to perform maintenance. As mentioned... I've been doing it this way since 2006.

BTW I also maintain a garden hose attached to the motor and EVERY DAY (this might be a little overkill, I know, but I get bored easily) when I go to clean my dog run, I crack the hose bib for 1 minute. Just enough water to replace water in the system. If I ever have to pull the heads, I expect to find them clean as a whistle. (not planning on pulling the heads anytime soon).

I do my own maintanance and pride myself in taking care of the boat I've been blessed with. Bottom line is I suppose is to flush your motor... (1) using the garden hose attachment only method, (2) using the garden hose attachment w/ motor running at 1500 RPM/ or (3) using the muffs / garden hose attachment w/motor running. Which ever methodology you feel most comfortable using.

I didn't think we'd get clarification when I resurrected this topic. I'm new to the forum, stumbled on this thread... and thought I'd stir the pot. As I hope you can tell... I have alot of time. I am reading every thread and am on page 20 of 73... long way to go.

Driving my wife nuts everyday -Joe

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ym0WQMMaOoo&feature=related

 

[BarryB]

The muffs are cheap and flushing from the lower unit up allows fresh water to circulate through the entire motor. I don't know if flushing from the hose port forces water into the water pump. If not, then salt will build in the lower unit (not good). This is an easy thread, use the muffs and have no problem.

 

[Novangler]

I'm pretty sure flushing from the hose attachment bypasses the whole lower unit, and only flushes the engine.

Optimally, you want to flush the whole system.

 

[fridaysoff]

If there is a warranty still on my motor I would do what the owners manual recommends,which on my 2008 150HP 4 stroke Yamaha was not to run the motor while flushing with the built in flush port.

 

[dk2943]

And when you do flush, use one of the Salt Off products

 

[MZBHAVN]

If there is a warranty still on my motor I would do what the owners manual recommends,which on my 2008 150HP 4 stroke Yamaha was not to run the motor while flushing with the built in flush port.

I agree, plus try and run a 150 over idle on muffs and it will overheat quickly as its hard to get a good seal with muffs.

 

[BarryB]

You don't run or rev a motor over idle on muffs. Just idle for ten minutes and shut down.