Surge brake bleeding

[k9reno]

I have been over the EZ loader site and manual but can find nothing on how to refilll the master cylinder and bleed the surg brake system on my trailer. I have been noticing the braking system not slowiung the trailer properly. Upon checking I found the fluid level in my master cylinder very very low. I added fluid but I believe I need to bleed the system. Does any one know the procedure I like trailering better when the breaks are working right. Oh also searched this site but didnt find anything either.

 

[blakinsmith]

K9 - it is a pretty simple procedure...I assume you have an ATCO actuator which was stock with my 210 EZ loader trailer. You need two people. First attach your hitch and ball to the coupler on your trailer. You will need that for mechanical leverage to pump up and down on the hitch to actuate your master cyllinder (simulates the load when braking). Next fill the master cyllinder reservoir. Leave the cap off so you can visually inspect fluid level. You'll want to keep that full enough at all times to no let air into the system. Then start with the wheel farthest from the actuator - rear port I believe. Loosen the bleed valve nut a bit. Then add a small piece (18 inches or so) of plastic tubing to the bleed valve (about 1/4 in I.D). Submerge the free end of the tubing in a cup or small bottle with a couple inches of hydraulic fluid in it. Now loosen the bleed valve enough to allow a little fluid to flow. Holler to the other person on the hitch to slowly pump. You should see fluid going into your cup/bottle and if there is air in system you will see a few bubbles in your cup/bottle as well as the maser cyllinder reservoir. Submerging the end of the tubing and not opening the valve much ensures no air is introduced on the upstroke. Once your stream is clear (should take just a few strokes), tighten the bleed valve, remove tubing and repeat process for other rear wheel. Then move to the front set. Add fluid to the master cyllinder reservoir as needed to keep it no less than 1/2 full.. In a pinch you can omit the bleed valve tubing and submersion but you have to make sure you are tightening the valve while fluid is being emitted - can be messy. Top off your master cyllinder reservoir as needed.

It isn't hard. If you have zero fluid left, I'd check that you have intact lines. I had two get severed right by the brake connection, from, I believe, suspension movement up and down.....Barry

 

[HighTechRedneck]

If the master cylinder is empty stick your finger in it and check for rust. mine was completly empty when i bought the boat and the master cylinder was completely rusted and the seals were blown out. I replaced the master for about $50.

HTR

 

[Dave LeGear]

Though I am a big fan of bleeding brake fluid every few years to get the crud out of the lines and system, unless the master cylinder was dry you should just need to fill it back up

Brake systems on most boat trailers though are used very little when compared to our trucks that we drive everyday... If the fluid was that low and the master cylinder cap is sealing, I bet you are going to find a (or both) wheel cylinder are leaking