Fuel

[Dave LeGear]

Other than my eyesight going South at times from the effects of CVS thus forcing me to jack up the size of fonts I now use as compared to my older posts (wondered if anybody else noticed?) Dave is very cool and really too much so and needs some heat! Thus no need to worry But thanks for the concern Dave does have a lot of irons in the fire and my right hand now has taken the almost constant shape of a "mouse" (like a Talon) which by the way happens to get worse when it does not get to grip a bait caster for too long of a period! Ha-Ha... Fish more and work less we all need to do

I think the video above covered all the above topics including how the OEM's may not cover Warranty related issues. I also think it has some merit in showing how using that fuel even with a system not designed for such much like a modern outboard, did not show much effects and in some ways cleaner. From a purely engine deposit standpoint like running a Diesel on "Bean Oil" as we called it years ago, is cleaner than crude oil based fuels. I say this because not because you can compare both engines in all functions, but can in one aspect... What is left behind after you "burn" the various types of fuel.

Now I do not like how the use of such fuel has been "crammed" down our tanks. I do not cotton to the lack of choices at all and see this a overreach of power like many other things. And I do not think that sectors of Uncle Exxon are very happy about such either, but we will pass on that topic for a later time over a few Mojito's

Water in fuel though has been a constant battle since the first days of fuel storage. And as I made mention, can be a hassle no matter what is dumped into the tank.

Rubber fuel lines (though I question the quality and materials of lines actually tested) is reported to have issues with E10. Then again, others report it does not so not much of a constant there and loops back to who's wallet is looking to grow on either side of that debate.

Be that as it may, there now is a new product I found that claims to actually control both issues This and presents a video from Ship Shape TV on how it does just that. So I submit for your viewing and buying consideration to help combat both of those issues this link which if actually works as stated and shown, should (n theory) pretty much put all fears aside

Formula X2 - Home

Best,
Dave

 

[mrgreencms]

Ok Guys. I have followed all the posts and now I am confused. It happens often. I purchased my 195CC in October and I have been using marine Sta-bil and Ring-Free ( I have a Yamaha 115). I have only taken it out 4 to 5 times and I filled the tank the last time and it sits in the drive way waiting for warmer weather. Naturally I am concerned about fuel seperation/water/and other issues. Reading the posts has been very interesting and causes some concern. So what is the best addative to use to help out the situtation the use of Sta-bil, ring-free and now X2, all three together? Next queston where can you get X2? the video was great and I am watching it again, to ensure I have full understanding.

 

[Chad@MerrittMarine]

Hey guys, great questions and answers provided. Here at the shop we like BRP's 2 + 4 Fuel conditioner. Hope this helps in any way. Have a great day guys.

 

[mrgreencms]

Chad, I looked up BRP's 2+4 fuel conditioner and have a question for you. Can it be used with any type of engine or only Evinrude/Johnson?

 

[Chad@MerrittMarine]

it can be used in any engine, we believe it is the best fuel conditioner out there. We've heard some horror stories on the other products. Haven't had any complaints on the 2 + 4. Let me know if i can help.

 

[BarrNone]

After listening to both sides of the discussion I think that I'm going to drain the tank after it's winterized. That being said the question comes to mind, how do I drain it, short of sticking a hose down the filler neck? I'm of the mind that this will not remove all of the fuel. If I'm correct, when I pulled up the back deck plate to clean I think I was looking at the rear of the fuel tank and that there were 2 points of entry for access to drain. Am I correct and should this be the way to drain all of the fuel out? Thanks

 

[pamarine]

most modern small-boat fuel tanks have no sump access. This means that unles they have cleanout ports in the top of the tank, the only way to reasonably drain the tank is stick a siphon or hand-pump down the fill.

There is good reason for this apparent oversight, most of these tanks are mounted in such a way that the sump areas are inaccessible to even the small chinese contortionist you cringed excitedly over at Cirque du Soleil. And, since the Coast Guard requires access to inspect tank fitting and fuel lines (which would include a sump drain) and access to stop a leak at these points, tank manufacturers and boat builders omit them (you don't have to access what isn't there )

 

[Push&Pull]

After listening to both sides of the discussion I think that I'm going to drain the tank after it's winterized. That being said the question comes to mind, how do I drain it, short of sticking a hose down the filler neck? I'm of the mind that this will not remove all of the fuel. If I'm correct, when I pulled up the back deck plate to clean I think I was looking at the rear of the fuel tank and that there were 2 points of entry for access to drain. Am I correct and should this be the way to drain all of the fuel out? Thanks

Yep!

Another option is to add a bulkhead fitting close to the sending unit where you would have access inside the tank for installing the fitting. Then attach a pickup tube or hose directed to the rear bottom of the tank. That way you could attach a dedicated hose to the bulkhead fitting for draining the tank and cap it off when not used. Then you wouldn't have to remove the floor to drain the tank.

 

[pamarine]

Yep! View attachment 3340

As they say, a picture's worth a thousand words. Bill, perfect picture! Need Randy to put that somewhere that it won't get lost

 

[BarrNone]

Yep! View attachment 3340

Another option is to add a bulkhead fitting close to the sending unit where you would have access inside the tank for installing the fitting. Then sttach a pickup tube or hose to the rear bottom of the tank. That way you could attach a dedicated hose to the bulkhead fitting for draining the tank and cap it off when not used. Then you wouldn't have to remove the floor to drain the tank.

The next obviuos question is, Where do I pick this up at?

 

[Push&Pull]

The next obviuos question is, Where do I pick this up at?

Try here. Moeller Marine Online - Connectors

 

[BarrNone]

Yep! View attachment 3340

Another option is to add a bulkhead fitting close to the sending unit where you would have access inside the tank for installing the fitting. Then attach a pickup tube or hose directed to the rear bottom of the tank. That way you could attach a dedicated hose to the bulkhead fitting for draining the tank and cap it off when not used. Then you wouldn't have to remove the floor to drain the tank.

I disconnected the hose from the pick up and attached my hose connected to pump and ran the pump for a solid 5 minutes and not one drop of fuel came through. I thought it was the pump so I dropped the end into one of my gas cans and within 10 seconds fuel was coming out so I reconnected it to the fitting and still no fuel. I popped the fitting loose and tried pulling the fitting out but there is something on the end of that hose and I was afraid to pull to hard. I thought about going through the sending unit hole but I don't know if I pull the 5 screws holding it are there nuts or a backing plate on it and I don't want them to fall into the tank. Any recomendations? Thanks.

 

[Push&Pull]

There is an anti-siphon valve (a little stainless ball w/spring) on the fitting from the tank's pickup and if my be causing enough restriction to prevent the pump from picking up a prime. try changing the anti-siphon fitting for a straight hose barb fitting. There is sometimes a filter screen slipped over the end of the pickup tube, but if the fuel was getting to your engine alright, then it is not probably not clogged. The anit-siphon is the likely culprit.

 

[BarrNone]

When I unscrewed the anti siphon and pulled up on it there was something n the end that did not let me pull it all the way out. Can I just pull that out or is there a filter on the end of it? How do I get that out if it has a filter on it without having the filter drop down to the bottom of the tank?

 

[Push&Pull]

The anti-siphon actually screws into the 90 degree fitting that is the pickup tube. You can unscrew the anti-siphon from the 90 leaving the pickup tube in place. Then screw in a 1/4" mpt x hose barb fitting and attach your pump hose.

 

[BarrNone]

Is there anything on the back of the screws to the sending unit? I see 5 screws there, if I take them out are there nuts or a backing plate that will fall down into the tank or are the screws just into the plastic of the tank?

 

[Push&Pull]

No, they are actually molded nuts into the plastic. You can eaily remove the sending unit and access draining the tank from there. Take care of the orientation of the plate for both the angle of swing of the float and the fact that while the five holes look evenly spaced, they in fact, only fit one way.

 

[BarrNone]

Thank you very much.

 

[dedogfish]

I have followed all the above mentioned advice over the last several years. Purchased the boat new in 2006. Used startron and ring free in every tank. Changed out my 10 micron Yamaha filter two times a season and the inboard paper fuel filter at the beginning of each season (our season April to Nov). Never mixed the e10 with regular gas (always used the e10). My HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP died in 2009. My dealers "contracted out" mechanic replaced the entire high pressure fuel pump assembly (tank, pump and lines) all for about $1300. And yes I was out of the 3 year warranty. Always kept the tank filled and treated. Since the major repair bill I pump out all the fuel and place it in the truck at the beginning of the season and start with fresh fuel. I discussed this with another mechanic and he stated that some folks have him clean the fine screen under the high pressure fuel pump periodically. This is not an easy task and if performed by a mechanic can cost $500 in labor. Anyone have issues with the HPFP?